tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38504336495143473962024-03-23T03:13:46.571-07:00Pets Behaving Badly: Solutions with Dr KateDr Kate Mornement, PhD qualified Applied Animal Behaviourist, talks pet behaviour, understanding and resolving problem behaviour and the incredible relationships we share with our companion animals...Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.comBlogger27125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-86040148910595991132019-05-07T23:28:00.001-07:002019-05-07T23:28:10.384-07:00Is Your Pet Scared of the Vet? How to Avoid Fear During Vet VisitsIs your pet scared of the vet? Despite most vets doing their best to avoid your pet becoming fearful or stressed during their visit, fear at the vet is a common problem I assist clients with. Routine examination and procedures can cause pain and discomfort resulting in some pets becoming fearful. In more severe cases, it can become really problematic, dangerous even, when cats and dogs become aggressive at the vet, making it extremely difficult to treat them properly. This, in turn, makes appointments at the vet stressful for everyone; the owner, the clinic staff AND the pet.<br />
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Why are some pets scared of the vet?</h3>
Pets typically become fearful of the vet, and sometimes the clinic environment itself, because of past unpleasant experiences (e.g. experiencing pain or discomfort, hearing scary noises, being in an unfamiliar environment, being touched and handled when they didn't want to be etc.) or because of a lack of past positive experiences and socialisation at the vet (this scenario is common in rescue dogs who may not have received much veterinary care before coming into the rescue group/animal shelter). Sometimes, it's a combination of both.<br />
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Most aggression towards vets and vet nurses is fear based. When an animal is scared they're in "fight, flight or freeze" mode. This is a survival mechanism which we experience as well. Some shut down and do nothing (freeze), some repeatedly try to get away (flight) and others will display aggression towards the vet (fight).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even being restrained can be stressful for some dogs</td></tr>
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Cats and dogs communicate through their body language when they're scared, uncomfortable or don't want to be touched or approached (e.g. they may pant, whine, sweat from their paws, avoid the vet/vet nurse, have wide eyes, dilated pupils, cower etc) however when these more subtle signs are ignored, some pets resort to aggressive behaviour (such as hissing, biting and scratching in cats and growling, barking, snapping and biting in dogs). They do this because the aggressive behaviour is reinforced (results in a desired consequence) either by delaying or preventing something unpleasant from happening.<br />
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Sometimes even well socialised and cared for pets develop fear of the vet, especially after traumatic experiences (e.g. illnesses or accidents requiring emergency surgery) or following a number of vet visits over a relatively short timeframe (e.g. several visits in one month) where the pet doesn't have enough time between visits to recover from the scary experience.<br />
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It's important to remember that often what we consider routine treatment (i.e. vaccinations, dental work, having their temperature checked, being desexed and even having a physical exam by an unfamiliar person) can be quite stress and anxiety provoking, even scary, for some pets. In addition, some pets are, by their nature, more sensitive than others.<br />
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Do you enjoy going to the dentist?</h4>
When I think about pets being scared of vet visits I think about my own experiences as a child visiting the dentist. When I was 8 to 10 years old I had a number of unpleasant experiences at the dentist. I had to have several teeth pulled out and required treatment for a painful abscess. These visits all involved having injections in my gums (OUCH!!!) and other unpleasant things (the crunching sound of teeth being extracted comes to mind!). As a result, I hated going to the dentist. This fear of the dentist resulted in heart palpations, loss of appetite and sweaty palms in the lead up to every appointment I had as a child.<br />
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As an adult, I avoided going to the dentist for years! Thankfully I have overcome my fear of the dentist by choosing one who takes time to ensure I am as comfortable as possible and goes to great lengths to avoid me experiencing any pain. I also get a free toothbrush and toothpaste and get to watch my favourite movie or tv show while I'm in the dentist chair. These little touches help to make the experience much more positive.<br />
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How to prevent your pet being scared of the vet</h3>
Prevention really is they key to having a pet that enjoys vet visits and there are many steps you can take to ensure your dog or cat does not develop fear (and possibly aggression) towards your vet. This training and socialisation should begin as early as possible, when your pet is a kitten or puppy.<br />
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Take your pet to puppy school or kitten kinder during their critical period for socialisation (a developmental window during which young animals are most open to new experiences). The critical period last from about <a href="https://www.ppgaustralia.net.au/PuppySocializationPositionStatement" target="_blank">five weeks to 12-16 weeks in puppies</a> and from about <a href="https://petprofessionalguild.com/Feline-Socialization" target="_blank">three to 16 weeks in kittens</a>. The experiences (or lack thereof) pets have during this time helps mould the way they view their world (and vet visits!). Many vet clinics run puppy classes and some offer kitten kinder. If your clinic doesn't then regular visits during this time will help your pet habituate to the clinic environment (sights, smells, sounds etc).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzeKbKooTBPCfFbmch4TyFr49p5oP7byKOGheSiw-m5-RPN0JsRfp75_OYB2bZ4Db2ShnWIyKlE5Aono2s6W6BTXdb6rV4oXnzdaangwZVSiaEDgAn90ShFvuAtWkfWnGzUrCYoXowC8/s1600/puppy-919223_1280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzeKbKooTBPCfFbmch4TyFr49p5oP7byKOGheSiw-m5-RPN0JsRfp75_OYB2bZ4Db2ShnWIyKlE5Aono2s6W6BTXdb6rV4oXnzdaangwZVSiaEDgAn90ShFvuAtWkfWnGzUrCYoXowC8/s320/puppy-919223_1280.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This pups body language (eyes averted, ears back) demonstrates fear</td></tr>
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Throughout your pets life try to ensure that all vet visits are as enjoyable as possible. Have high value treats and your pets favourite toy with you at every vet visit. Feed your pet treats, praise, pat and play with them in the waiting room, when they're weighed, when you go into the consult room, during the vet exam and afterwards.<br />
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If your pet is scared of other animals, explain this to the staff when making the appointment. Often they can schedule you in when there will be fewer animals in the waiting room. For cats, having them in a carrier (that they're comfortable in) with a towel draped over it can help block out scary things like other animals or unfamiliar people but can still allow you to pass treats through.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A towel or blanket over the carrier cat help scared cats feel more comfortable</td></tr>
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Take your pet to the vet when you don't have an appointment and continue building a positive association with the staff and clinic environment. Have the staff feed your pet treats if they'll take them willingly and weigh your pet and give them treats. Let your dog have a sniff and reinforce them with treats for compliant behaviour (e.g. sitting). Be sure to call ahead when you do this to make sure it's ok - most vet clinics will happily oblige. Doing helps your pet learn that coming to the vet doesn't alway mean something unpleasant, such as having an injection or a thermometer up the bum, is going to happen. Your aim is to make your pet think that going to the vet is great because so much good stuff happens! Or, at the very least, help to counteract the unpleasant things your pet may experience during the appointment.<br />
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I took our dog Lenny for his annual check up this morning. I came prepared with lots of yummy treats (devon and liver treats) and gave them to him frequently from the moment we entered the vet clinic, while we waited, when I weighed him, in the consult room, during his examination and vaccination and back in the waiting room when I paid and chatted with the receptionist. Our vet also gives treats but I wanted to make the whole experience as positive as possible for Lenny. At first he was a little anxious with all the new smells and people and the novel environment. However, by the end of the appointment he was much calmer. I'm going to take some of my own advice and ensure I take him there and continue to build a positive association with the staff and clinic environment even when he doesn't have an appointment. When the positive experiences your pet has at the vet outweigh the negative they are much less likely to develop fear and anxiety in response to vet visits.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOQwanpFk2_zyDHEBi0M5p4SOpM0JbZiURUNfPOD3GENt3ZOAX3_iFzirN9eC3XzHBDIwEJjnpMZeDU85h4RqxamjTB1HELuRywrYY2P2G-1_GWa14M2K53L8iqG5YEDArpYLCJVMS6ig/s1600/IMG_7332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOQwanpFk2_zyDHEBi0M5p4SOpM0JbZiURUNfPOD3GENt3ZOAX3_iFzirN9eC3XzHBDIwEJjnpMZeDU85h4RqxamjTB1HELuRywrYY2P2G-1_GWa14M2K53L8iqG5YEDArpYLCJVMS6ig/s320/IMG_7332.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lenny is happy about all the treats and pats he's getting at the vet</td></tr>
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How to reduce fear in pets already scared of the vet</h3>
For pets who already display fear-related behaviours, including aggression, during vet visits there are a number of things you can do to help reduce their fear and teach them to associate vet visits with positive experiences. Firstly, a muzzle may be necessary for the safety of the owner and vet and <a href="https://www.clickertraining.com/muzzles" target="_blank">dogs should be conditioned to wear the muzzle</a> before it's used during vet visits.<br />
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The most effective way to reduce fear towards the vet is a combination of <i>desensitisation</i> and <i>counter-conditioning</i>. This involves gradual exposure to the clinic environment, vet nurses and vet starting at a level your pet tolerates well. Counter-conditioning should occur simultaneously and involves pairing something your pet really, really loves (i.e. high value food/treats) with being near/in the clinic environment. Often times this training starts in the car park and gradually progresses to inside the waiting room and then in the consult room over a series of training sessions if the pet is coping well. This process can take weeks, even months, depending on the severity of fear your pet experiences and the amount of training you do. In some cases, sedatives may be necessary in conjunction with behaviour modification training to help pets overcome their fear and anxiety associated with vet visits.<br />
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In recent years, a number of vet clinics have obtained certification as "fear free" clinics. This movement started in the USA and is now gaining popularity in Australia. Fear free vet clinics are designed to minimise fear and stress for pets during visits and are well suited to pets who are already fearful.<br />
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If you're concerned about your pet's fear of the vet it's important to contact an experienced and suitability qualified animal behaviourist or trainer to assist. In my experience the sooner the fear is addressed the better; for you, your pet and the vet!<br />
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Dr Kate xDr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-16577846116499520582019-03-19T21:58:00.000-07:002019-03-20T00:50:43.227-07:00How To Crate Train Your Dog<span style="font-family: inherit;">Some people view crating dogs as cruel and it can be if dogs are confined excessively. However, done correctly, crate training teaches dogs a number of important life skills and provides dog caregivers with an effective management tool. From my point of view, the benefits of crate training for both dogs and their owners far outweigh the potential risks.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Why crate train your dog?</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Dog have a natural instinct to seek safety and comfort and crate training takes advantage of this behaviour. There are many benefits to having a crate trained dog. Some of these include: </span><br />
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Assisting with toilet training – puppies and adult dogs learn to hold their bladder and bowls as they don’t like to toilet where they sleep and rest. Be sure to provide your dog with plenty of opportunities to toilet before and after crating your puppy or adult dog overnight. Young puppies may need additional opportunities to toilet outside during the night</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Minimising destructive chewing when not actively supervised</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Helps to avoid night time barking at possums and other things (especially when used with a crate cover)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Helping dogs learn to settle and relax</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Teaching dogs to cope with separation from their owners gradually – A very important skill to help reduce/avoid the development of separation anxiety</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Crates provide a safe place for dogs and are helpful for dogs who live with young children. Their crate is a place where they can go to rest without being bothered or where dogs can be safely separated from babies and young children</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Crates are very useful when travelling with dogs, especially when staying in other people’s homes or dog friendly accommodation (e.g. AirBnB)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Crate trained puppies and dogs cope better with confinement they might experience at the vet or groomers</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">When is the best time to crate train your dog?</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The best time to start crate training is the day you bring your puppy or adult dog home. Puppies adapt well to crate training as part of their new routine as soon as they come home. Newly acquired adult dogs can take a little longer to learn to love their crate, especially if they’re not used to being confined. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">C</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">hoosing a crate for your dog</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">There are a number of different types of crates to choose from including wire, plastic and fabric. Choose a style and material that suits your needs and your dog baring in mind that you get what you pay for in terms of cost. Some materials, such as plastic and fabric, can easily be chewed and may not be the best choice for puppies. Wire crates are great because they fold down for ease of transport and storage - One of the reasons I chose a good quality, sturdy wire crate for our dog Lenny. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Whatever type of crate you choose, be sure to purchase a size that allows your fully grown dog to stand up, turn around, lie down and stretch out comfortably. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even with the door open, this dog prefers to sleep in the cate<br />
Image source: <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/_tar0_/5951836833/in/photostream/" target="_blank">Flickr</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">How to crate train your dog </span></h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The secret to successful crate training is to do it gradually, using positive reinforcement to create a positive association with the crate and to reinforce your dog for being inside for longer and longer periods of time. Here are the steps I recommend:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Step 1 </span></h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Place the crate in a room or area of the home where you (or the family) spend lots of time. This will help your dog feel more relaxed as they’ll be able to see you when they’re inside the crate. At the beginning of the training process, place a towel or mat inside the crate to prevent your dog from slipping. These can easily be washed if necessary. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Step 2 </span></h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">To begin the crate training, start to build a positive association with entering and being inside the crate for short periods while you’re nearby. At first, leave the crate doors open so your dog can enter and exit freely. Use praise and high value treats to entice your dog to go into (and momentarily stay inside) the crate. Repeat these training sessions daily. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Outside of the training sessions, there are other ways you can build on creating a positive association with being inside the crate. Feed your dog their meals or give them puzzle toys filled with high value treats or long lasting chew treats inside the crate. Give your dog their favourite toys inside the crate. Place your dog’s favourite bed inside while leaving the crate door open. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Step 3 </span></h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin closing the crate door during training sessions but only if your dog is comfortable inside the crate and shows no signs of stress when you gently close the doors. This may take several days or weeks depending on your dog and how much training you do. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Step 4 </span></h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Gradually increase the time your dog stays inside the crate and the time between food reinforcement. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Step 5 </span></h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Next, start to leave the room for short periods of time (e.g. 1 or 2 minutes) while your dog is inside the crate eating a meal or treats. This step is important and teaches your dog to cope with separation from you and to be comfortable on their own. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Step 6 </span></h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Gradually increase the time you step away but only if your dog is coping well at the previous step. Once your dog tolerates absences of 2 minutes increase it to 5 minutes, then 10 minutes, then 15, 30, 1 hour etc. Remember to only increase the time out of sight if your dog remains calm and relaxed. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Step 7 </span></h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Next see if your dog will sleep inside their crate, on their favourite bed, overnight. Once your dog is happy sleeping inside the crate overnight you can practice leaving your dog inside the crate when you leave the house for short periods. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Eventually, your dog will enjoy spending time in and sleeping in the crate without the need for constant reinforcement from you. However, it’s a good idea to give your dog a treat or meal inside the crate, every now and then, to maintain a positive association. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">When crate training my own dog Lenny recently, I used the <a href="https://smartanimaltraining.com/" target="_blank">Pet Tutor</a>. With two toddlers, I’m very time poor at present! The Pet Tutor made the whole process incredibly easy and did most of the hard work for me! Watch the video below to learn more about the Pet Tutor and how I used it to crate train Lenny. (</span><i style="font-family: inherit;">Note: If you live in Australia and wish to purchase the Pet Tutor, contact me for a promo code to claim a free small treat adaptor and bag of treats! Australians can purchase the Pet Tutor <a href="https://www.politepaws.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&zenid=p14jepqonuuipld06etqpp9o22&keyword=pet+tutor" target="_blank">here</a>).</i><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">For me, the whole process took about three weeks of daily training sessions for Lenny to be completely relaxed in the crate and happy to sleep inside overnight. However, it’s important to recognise that every dog is different and the process might be quicker or longer for you and your dog. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Whether or not you decide to crate train your dog really comes down to personal preference and circumstances. However, having a dog that’s crate trained can certainly make living with your dog that little bit easier. This has certainly been the case for myself and my family. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">If you decide to give crate training a go, we'd love to hear how it goes! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Happy training! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Dr Kate.</span><br />
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</style>Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-55992045059960020412018-11-01T22:09:00.000-07:002018-11-02T16:39:30.759-07:00Adopting Lenny: A year in the Life of a Rescued DogThis is the story of how Lenny the Border Collie came into our lives and his first year with our family. I wanted to share his story to raise awareness of rescue dogs and to provide some insight into the steps we took when adopting our own rescue dog.<br />
<br />
It all began back in September 2017 when I had an overwhelming urge to add another dog to our growing family. At the time our two little boys were two and one year old. Our old Labrador Joe was unwell and I was sad at the prospect of not having a canine companion to share our home. I knew that a young puppy would be too much work with two toddlers so I contacted a lovely friend who worked at a local animal shelter. I emailed her a list of very specific characteristics, secretly thinking such a dog was unlikely to end up at the shelter...Boy was I wrong! ...Enter "Ken".<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBmrgYJOCGqEkGRLRqXYyASwisHu7HDpI1xM-ZqaQyRiq9EfSkWZUn9zm49oTtSs17-b3GwtjrKJpVh2q3M6dtGVOV6K9KNRobgIxvaNjy0A08DNfnLnwiXxMQe_ext0TtI0IQLWksClg/s1600/45221542_500291300448542_3384416881875091456_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBmrgYJOCGqEkGRLRqXYyASwisHu7HDpI1xM-ZqaQyRiq9EfSkWZUn9zm49oTtSs17-b3GwtjrKJpVh2q3M6dtGVOV6K9KNRobgIxvaNjy0A08DNfnLnwiXxMQe_ext0TtI0IQLWksClg/s320/45221542_500291300448542_3384416881875091456_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lenny and me<br />
Image: <a href="http://whataboutcharlie.com.au/" target="_blank">What About Charlie</a></td></tr>
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<br />
My friend called several weeks later to tell me about a lovely 5 month old Border Collie puppy who had just come in as a stray. His name was Ken. As she described this puppy to me I had a little chuckle to myself as I tended to warn prospective dog owners away from working breeds if they lived in suburbia. I also did not consider a working dog to be a good match for our family in our current situation with very young children. That said, I decided to go and meet this little guy, not so much to bring him home but more so for a bit of a puppy fix.<br />
<br />
Looking back now, I think I was a little nuts! Maybe I was still under the influence of baby hormones. Who knows?! The first time I laid eyes on him I melted. He was goofy, wiggly, cuddly and just way too adorable! Despite his charm I was convinced he probably wasn't right for us. "He'll be scared of the boys", "Joseph won't appreciate his exuberance", "My husband Dave won't think it's a good idea". As all these thoughts were going through my mind, and my friend was telling me how wonderful this little guy was, I just spent time with him getting to know him. That first visit lasted about an hour. It went so well that I decided the next step was to meet my two toddler boys...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCQSrjsudtwmqiA-XzbXU-TxPbXNIjQl-7oOlE3gAgIs_qQyQAEUuySB42d4_k5OfKrg5dTYvzqOmGXGpMLISwmhUf5eyuiFjkG5GPI71Nk4eHlkMqwaSWKgUjgKmUc6qTKci4GftfgA/s1600/45301768_1186002898226174_7521555090503630848_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCQSrjsudtwmqiA-XzbXU-TxPbXNIjQl-7oOlE3gAgIs_qQyQAEUuySB42d4_k5OfKrg5dTYvzqOmGXGpMLISwmhUf5eyuiFjkG5GPI71Nk4eHlkMqwaSWKgUjgKmUc6qTKci4GftfgA/s320/45301768_1186002898226174_7521555090503630848_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First time meeting Lenny ("Ken") at 5 months old</td></tr>
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Several days later I visited Ken again, this time with my two little boys in toe and my wonderful father-in-law to assist with the introduction. I was sure Ken would be too energetic or rough or potentially scared of them. He proved me wrong. We spent an hour or so with him that day. He was gentle, wiggly and relatively calm. No sign of fear at all. Again, Ken was a little star. "Damn!" I thought to myself. "Next step: Meeting Dave and our old Lab Joseph". Dave didn't need too much convincing to meet Ken but I was a little concerned by how Joe would receive him, being that he was still a puppy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjWZEeI2T5jyttG-VAi1sWOF_Bx0SXBo9oSGhujEhQ0xVHiS5ThVwXkhRVvDSrVPhumQfoAQLXfyzgesD2teYKpSfDkxjuvNBGfmDZn2eFeXoZbwekYtoiNuug3Vhb0K0GvwSQaxn4JfM/s1600/45181816_337711790328615_5192938339325444096_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjWZEeI2T5jyttG-VAi1sWOF_Bx0SXBo9oSGhujEhQ0xVHiS5ThVwXkhRVvDSrVPhumQfoAQLXfyzgesD2teYKpSfDkxjuvNBGfmDZn2eFeXoZbwekYtoiNuug3Vhb0K0GvwSQaxn4JfM/s320/45181816_337711790328615_5192938339325444096_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My two boys meeting Lenny for the first time</td></tr>
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A week later we had our third meeting with Ken. Dave liked him a lot and, surprisingly, so did Joe! I was really surprised by Joe's response to Ken. The meet and greet went so well that we agreed to foster Ken with a view to adopt, all going well. Secretly I was still convinced it wouldn't work out but I was happy to have him at home learning skills that would help him be an even better companion.<br />
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The weeks rolled by and Ken just fitted in so well. He was easy. About six weeks after bringing him home we officially adopted him and renamed him Lenny. It was the 2nd of November 2017. His Gotcha Day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ7YZ2jBCYwxEyjfW6EeeVzFXbvh22a6AfJz8otUqZHP-BZxLb_q7xb9dqKo4DZxAveGkCqM72xzIrOZbqozaMkvISkH60gPhEcb4et36sxnojaAFRhfnG1pkOtBQ_YA14Ffo10Jix3ko/s1600/45153982_264245817618526_7145725583584919552_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ7YZ2jBCYwxEyjfW6EeeVzFXbvh22a6AfJz8otUqZHP-BZxLb_q7xb9dqKo4DZxAveGkCqM72xzIrOZbqozaMkvISkH60gPhEcb4et36sxnojaAFRhfnG1pkOtBQ_YA14Ffo10Jix3ko/s320/45153982_264245817618526_7145725583584919552_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When Lenny met Joe</td></tr>
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It's important to acknowledge that the past year with Lenny hasn't all been rainbows and unicorns. Other than the usual puppy issues, like chewing everything, we have had some minor challenges. Toilet training went really well initially and then reverted in Winter. Mostly due to me not having as much time to devote to training (because two toddlers!) but also because Lenny hates going to the toilet on wet grass. He has improved a lot but still has the occasional accident overnight, especially when it's been raining.<br />
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Lenny was also initially quite fearful of motorbikes, trains and bicycles when we'd encounter them during walks. I've been working consistently on this and he is much calmer when a train or motorbike goes by. We are still working on teaching him that people on bicycles are nothing to be afraid of. He's much better but still has a little way to go, especially when they're close and moving fast.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmxfCpr0SdP-0Zg8r6gxUAvlneKxWRG_mLAGCsnBOr9TkR3XSuYNX1XigXl-dFnxrH5ZT1efe8VWEBzKv4EEnKwmErW0dAMuZQcX7xWcbIpajvSVjB-W5hnUmyYMGgqMFd1wOLNUQiAoo/s1600/45320313_2211623082422457_3214600927327551488_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmxfCpr0SdP-0Zg8r6gxUAvlneKxWRG_mLAGCsnBOr9TkR3XSuYNX1XigXl-dFnxrH5ZT1efe8VWEBzKv4EEnKwmErW0dAMuZQcX7xWcbIpajvSVjB-W5hnUmyYMGgqMFd1wOLNUQiAoo/s320/45320313_2211623082422457_3214600927327551488_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A year in the life of Lenny</td></tr>
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I see the Border Collie come out in him when he mouths the boys as they move and play. He is very gentle and the boys know to be still and say NO! Lenny is learning to carry a toy or ball in his mouth when the kids are running or riding their bikes. The boys are also enjoying throwing the ball for him - which he loves!<br />
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Lenny really likes to stalk and chase Magpies during walks. He would bolt after them almost wrenching my arm out of it's socket. Teaching him to "leave it" and reinforcing focus on me with high value treats while walking past the Magpies has worked really well to reduce this behaviour. He doesn't do it often now as long as I ask him to "leave it". Giving him regular opportunities to chase birds off lead at the local oval also helps reduce the behaviour when on lead.<br />
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We have been very cautious with Lenny, Joseph and the boys. They are always separated unless actively supervised. This has kept everyone safe and helps to ensure their interactions are always positive. Although I'm a bit sad I haven't had the time I would have liked to spend with him and training him he learned the basics very quickly. He knows sit, drop, stay, shake hands (see video below), on your mat, wait, touch (a target, such as an open palm) and free. I've also trained him for a veterinary exam. I have so many ideas on behaviour to teach him but just lack the time right now.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyPC-jeDd-bw5peL_zHeNOeSeavA2Cn8NWvRQiCmlsaoG3124g0TWqdcgYmNCaZQ8vhJdTnvRQCA6HlgA_ajw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Toddlers make training sessions a bit tricky! :/</div>
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Lenny has been such a wonderful addition to our family. He is playful, affectionate, eager to please, a joy to walk, so clever and just lots of fun. Overall he has been pretty easy and adapted so well to our home and lifestyle. We look forward to sharing lots more adventures with him.<br />
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Adopting a dog can be such a wonderful and rewarding experience. Taking the time to ensure the dog you choose is the right fit for you and your situation (and vice versa) will save a lot of stress and potential heartache down the track.<br />
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And remember, if you do experience behavioural difficulties with your dog, help is available. Suitably qualified and experienced behaviourists and trainers can help you understand, manage and work to resolve problem behaviour.<br />
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Happy Gotcha Day Lenny! xo<br />
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<br />Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-38040632049455997002018-10-17T20:39:00.000-07:002019-04-01T16:18:09.322-07:00Gut Feeling: How your pet's microbiota affects their health and behaviour<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Have you heard about the recent discoveries of the gut microbiome and how it affects the health and behaviour of it’s host? If not, listen up. The implications of these findings not only effect us, they also effect our pets.</span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIo3pDkTdsAH3EIPQXZ976kfN0TwxzfpKZ6kKtNtsKYGWMUbfl_0mEd0lWdHNzagrwkpBdBOXXmI9jEQfxlPxzYi5ZXyqH-gaFlqKpXEMFFo-Cg9VNNVUgmsLKwjORRVpHHdAtQdhKv3M/s1600/animals-2607704_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIo3pDkTdsAH3EIPQXZ976kfN0TwxzfpKZ6kKtNtsKYGWMUbfl_0mEd0lWdHNzagrwkpBdBOXXmI9jEQfxlPxzYi5ZXyqH-gaFlqKpXEMFFo-Cg9VNNVUgmsLKwjORRVpHHdAtQdhKv3M/s320/animals-2607704_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did you know the gut microbiome of people and their pets overlap?</td></tr>
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<h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">What is the gut microbiota?</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Microbes are the smallest forms of life existing in every corner of the world, including inside the body of animals. Microbiotas exist throughout the body including on the skin and in the mouth but the gastrointestinal tract is the primary microbial habitat in humans and other animal species.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">What does the research tell us?</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In recent years, our understanding of the composition and functions of the gut microbiota, particularly in humans, has increased exponentially. Advances in technology, including next generation sequencing and metabolite profiling, have contributed to this new understanding.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This new frontier in scientific research is unveiling some extraordinary truths about the function and purpose of the gut microbiota in both humans and animals. Some of these discoveries include:</span><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The gut microbiota is host-specific and variable. Loss of diversity has a negative impact on health. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Diet significantly affects the composition of the gut microbiota. Research has found a link between long-term dietary habits and the structure of the gut microbiota. It also suggests that permanent adjustment of the microbiota may be achieved through diet (Marchesi et al., 2015) and that nutritional interventions may be useful for re-establishing a healthy micro biome. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">ngestible carbohydrates are the food of the gut microbiota and probiotics, prebiotics and polyphenols can promote gut health via the microbiota. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The gut microbiome plays a role in the development of obesity and associated metabolic disorders although the exact mechanisms remain unknown. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">T</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">he gut microbiota can affect the permeability of the intestines. Increased permeability of the intestinal wall is often referred to as “leaky gut syndrome”. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">C</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">hanges in the gut microbiota have been linked with the development of Inflammatory Bowl Disease, liver disease, obesity, diabetes, food allergies, Alzheimer’s, anxiety and depression.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Researchers are now comparing the gut microbiota to a new organ; a collection of cells working together with the host, able to promote health but also initiate disease. The gut microbiota is essential to the proper function and development of the host.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">What do these discoveries mean for our pets?</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To date, most of the research investigating gut health has focused on people. But what about gut health in companion animals? Given we are made of the same cells, organs and structures, do these new discoveries relate to our pets as well? </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The answer is YES! The canine and feline gut are similar to the human gut. Indeed, research shows that if you live with a companion animal, you share some of your microbiota with your furry family member! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Although in it's infancy, research investigating gut health in companion animals has unveiled some interesting results so far. These include:</span><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Although domestic cats are obligate carnivores and domestic dogs are metabolically more omnivorous, research suggests their gut microbiota are relatively similar. The predominant phyla of canine and feline gut microbiome are similar to those of humans and rodent models which are dominated by</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Firmicutes </i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">and</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Bacteroidetes.</i></li>
<li><span style="color: #954f72; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: -18pt;"><a href="https://gutpathogens.biomedcentral.com/track/pdf/10.1186/s13099-017-0218-5">A recent study</a> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">showed that long term diet type affected the microbiota of dogs. Dogs fed a more natural diet had higher richness and diversity of gut microbiota compared to commercially fed dogs. This study also concluded that dogs fed a natural diet may be more prone to microbial infection.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpkPm5wtlJ_3sOALamAc-xqzM-FToqweaNLAn3psE-uTa0yi00g4c_-mQejy-WRUX_cngQyHNkLLJjmGUgGJQmzY9kgwpvClQM6c3bnZBqNqSlwcAcotCsdIBgTHjcbVYomTwvybKhZzM/s1600/food-bowl-281978_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpkPm5wtlJ_3sOALamAc-xqzM-FToqweaNLAn3psE-uTa0yi00g4c_-mQejy-WRUX_cngQyHNkLLJjmGUgGJQmzY9kgwpvClQM6c3bnZBqNqSlwcAcotCsdIBgTHjcbVYomTwvybKhZzM/s320/food-bowl-281978_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd2VW7GxBveinT5xuZnUj2lBrvOF-oZpXIsFvySTQ1YJH5i76Z4UDqxz-kpdqOGYRCpxUOpwVffUP_ZT-e-1qV1HBtwSrJQ1AGGyjOHDipBOdV95gin_5iI3vPkc4Qmio4oxivY2L5XPs/s1600/raw-food-1276790_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1066" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd2VW7GxBveinT5xuZnUj2lBrvOF-oZpXIsFvySTQ1YJH5i76Z4UDqxz-kpdqOGYRCpxUOpwVffUP_ZT-e-1qV1HBtwSrJQ1AGGyjOHDipBOdV95gin_5iI3vPkc4Qmio4oxivY2L5XPs/s320/raw-food-1276790_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diet significantly affects the microbiome of dogs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Factors affecting the human gut microbiota (e.g. age, genetics, region, diet, health status, living environment) probably also affect the gut microbiota of dogs and cats. To date, however, there are no published studies investigating the link between behaviour and the microbiome in companion animals. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Research</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">has </i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">looked at the effect on other animals. For example, one study found that microbes influenced mate choice in fruit flies with individuals preferring to mate with others that were reared on the same diet. Furthermore, recent experiments with mice showed that the gut microbiome can influence stress, anxiety and depression related behaviour and may also influence how animals behave towards each other.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Understanding the taxonomy, dynamics, and functions of microbial communities, the relationships between them, the substances produces and consumed by microbes, the influence of environmental factors (such as diet, drugs, housing), the interaction with the host and the differences between healthy and diseased populations is the focus of current research.</span><br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">How can you support your pet's gut health?</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The use of probiotics for supporting gut health is also the subject of current research. Recent studies show supplementing the diet with probiotics and prebiotics could be beneficial. For example, Lactobacillus has been shown to reduce anxiety and lessen the effect of stress. Prebiotics support the growth of beneficial bacteria in the gut and can assist in recovery from illness such as acute diarrhea in dogs.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Supplements, such as Inside-Out from Australian company Evolution Animal Care, contain pre and probiotics and are available to help you support the gut health of your pets. Inside-Out is especially formulated for companion animals (and horses) and can be added to daily meals.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7iEL4jVTIGOeOzV0kV4n7d2SFPuXbNl2eItrqD0mWXCWFTFuIJOLJhuCBThP_FREQkcC5GbVrh8o6s23ND1_8IHaUCrxpwMLNzhsbkQ8GPWAcVGBYz1m7Ehg-e_Xs8NKOyoPipcsNCjY/s1600/44237333_188136638745015_7319989603832692736_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7iEL4jVTIGOeOzV0kV4n7d2SFPuXbNl2eItrqD0mWXCWFTFuIJOLJhuCBThP_FREQkcC5GbVrh8o6s23ND1_8IHaUCrxpwMLNzhsbkQ8GPWAcVGBYz1m7Ehg-e_Xs8NKOyoPipcsNCjY/s320/44237333_188136638745015_7319989603832692736_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical meal I feed my dogs, supplemented with Inside-Out</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I've been using Inside-Out, for my two dogs Joseph and Lenny, for the past 6 months. Joseph has had chronic skin disease for several years now. He's been on numerous courses of antibiotics and steroids and is now doing much better on cytopoint injections. Supplementing his diet with Inside-Out has been an important component of restoring his gut health. If you'd like to learn more about Inside-Out or purchase it for your own pet, click <a href="http://www.eacare.com.au/?rfsn=1849166.9ac255" target="_blank">here</a>. <i>Note: Inside-Out is currently available for shipping to Australian and New Zealand residents only</i>. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As research continues in this fascinating field we will, no doubt, learn more about the incredible links between gut flora, health and behaviour, in ourselves and our companion animals. This new understanding will help us improve the way we care for our pets to support their microbiome and optimise their health.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
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<h3>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">References</span></span></h3>
<div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Deng, P., & Swanson, K. S. (2015). Gut microbiota of humans, dogs and cats: current knowledge and future opportunities and challenges. <i>British Journal of Nutrition, 113(S1)</i>, S6-S17.</span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Ezenwa, V. O., Gerardo, N. M., Inouye, D. W., Medina, M., Xavier, J. B. (2012). Animal </span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">behaviour and the micro biome. <i>Science</i>,<i> 338(6104)</i>, 198-199.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Gomez-Gallego, C., Junila, J., Mannikko, S., Hameenoja, P., Valtonen, E., Salminen, S., & Beasley, S. (2016). A canine-specific probiotic product in treating acute or intermittent diarrhoea in dogs: A double-blind placebo-controlled efficacy study. <i>Veterinary microbiology</i>, 197, 122-128.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Hang, L. (2018). The Gut Microbiome and Behaviour. <i>International Association of Animal Behaviour Consultants (IAABC) Conference 2018</i>.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Kim, J., An, J U. Kim, W., Lee, S., & Cho, S. (2017). Differences in the gut microbiota of dogs (Canis lupus familiarise) fed a natural diet or a commercial feed revealed by the Illumina MiSeq platform. <i>Gut pathogens, 9(1)</i>, 68.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Marchesi, J. R., Adams, D. H., Fava, F., Hermes, G. D., Hirschfeld, G. M., Hold, G., ... & Tomas, L. V. (2015). The gut microbiota and host health: a new clinical frontier. <i>Gut</i>, gutjnl-2015.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Disclosure Statement: As an Inside-Out affiliate I earn commission from qualifying purchases</i></span>. </span></div>
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</style>Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-19646358207988604872018-06-14T18:53:00.000-07:002018-06-14T18:55:16.865-07:00The 4Rs for Better Behaviour: Reinforce the Right Response ReligiouslyOur dogs, and all animals for that matter, are learning about their environment and the consequences of their behaviour 24/7, not just during formal training sessions. <br />
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This means that every interaction your dog has with you, other people and other dogs, as well as all their previous life experiences, shapes their behaviour and the way they view their world.<br />
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Although we don't always have control over the environment and all the consequences that reinforce our pet's behaviour, there is much we can do to shape it for the better...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCrYVIXoatKvsaYaAqyxbviynEfpunF7KpsGdQcx4YAMOghT-ezLJpDMmVkSApqAD5MqEkwCU7JRDT0YWI2FdBd5SgBFnv1ta93b0BT3d84Rq-CgEMH92clXFvoVROHHeSdtnCdFYhIek/s1600/1A3A3755-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCrYVIXoatKvsaYaAqyxbviynEfpunF7KpsGdQcx4YAMOghT-ezLJpDMmVkSApqAD5MqEkwCU7JRDT0YWI2FdBd5SgBFnv1ta93b0BT3d84Rq-CgEMH92clXFvoVROHHeSdtnCdFYhIek/s320/1A3A3755-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here I'm reinforcing Lenny with treats and praise for shaking on cue</td></tr>
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<h4>
How to get better behaviour</h4>
Animals repeat behaviours that pay off; that have a desired consequence (also called a "reinforcer"). Reinforcers are not necessarily treats, rather they are consequences that strengthen (or increase) behaviour. This means that any behaviour (good or bad) that maintains or increases in frequency must have reinforcement value to the animal or else it wouldn't continue. Dogs that jump up on people is an example that comes to mind and a behaviour that's easily prevented (learn how <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com/2017/02/how-to-stop-your-dog-jumping-up.html" target="_blank">here</a>).<br />
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If you want better behaviour from your dog (or other animal), don't take good behaviour for granted! As pet owners we tend to do this a lot! When our pets are calm and relaxed we ignore them. Then we give them attention (e.g. tell them off) when they do the wrong thing.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmedJz2YVTZXvMUZkjnsYizEDaBnrsEmIu3hpKbu5tZpiGeQ001LBWlEgFNEjYYCf3aGknkfz4PweCkK9B2nxWxfln5HmOdakFVJO3UwBmozqWb2ZoEdiPJEBBVcpMQmTQjHK0RffWafk/s1600/1A3A4260-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmedJz2YVTZXvMUZkjnsYizEDaBnrsEmIu3hpKbu5tZpiGeQ001LBWlEgFNEjYYCf3aGknkfz4PweCkK9B2nxWxfln5HmOdakFVJO3UwBmozqWb2ZoEdiPJEBBVcpMQmTQjHK0RffWafk/s320/1A3A4260-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lenny LOVES pats and attention - effective reinforcers for him</td></tr>
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What we <i>should</i> be doing is what I call the <b>4Rs</b>: <b>R</b>einforce the <b>R</b>ight <b>R</b>esponse <b>R</b>eligiously. This simply means noticing when our dogs (or cats or birds etc) are offering behaviours we want to see more of (e.g. being calm and compliant or any other behaviour you like) and reinforcing that behaviour generously and frequently. The more often a desired behaviour is reinforced, the more likely that behaviour will be repeated in future. That's how behaviour works! But there's a catch - you must choose your reinforcers wisely and you must be consistent!<br />
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<h4>
Reinforcement effectiveness</h4>
Not all reinforcers are equal and lots of factors influence how effective and valuable different reinforcers are to an individual (you can learn more about reinforcement effectiveness <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com/2017/06/not-all-treats-are-equal-when-training.html" target="_blank">here</a>).<br />
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The important thing to understand is that just because <i>you</i> think something is reinforcing for your animal doesn't mean that's true. It's the learner who decides what's reinforcing, not the trainer. Experimenting with different reinforcers (e.g. food, toys, attention, pats) can help you determine which ones are most effective for the individual animal you are working with.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO-plzcebDNnTrT2itrIfzIZjckVXmhIXCU9S60RBlAWesEBBAxPIBWbh4fTnvNKqnwkTddddDumR9dZfnQPkb4t3Yl8oBQxF3B8QrnL3-6Z1EpkBh8fVZNtvR_dVHsZKUa2HW2y9pzAo/s1600/1A3A3969-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO-plzcebDNnTrT2itrIfzIZjckVXmhIXCU9S60RBlAWesEBBAxPIBWbh4fTnvNKqnwkTddddDumR9dZfnQPkb4t3Yl8oBQxF3B8QrnL3-6Z1EpkBh8fVZNtvR_dVHsZKUa2HW2y9pzAo/s320/1A3A3969-2.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lenny also loves tug - a great reinforcer for some dogs</td></tr>
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<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
Go practice the 4Rs!</h4>
So now that you understand the importance of not taking good behaviour for granted and instead <i>reinforcing the right behaviour religiously</i>, go and give it a try! You'll be surprised by how quickly you can get great results when you consistently reinforce behaviours you like.<br />
<br />
Dr Kate :)<br />
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Dr Kate Mornement is an Applied Animal Behaviourist & Consultant who runs <a href="http://petsbehavingbadly.com.au/" target="_blank">Pets Behaving Badly</a> in Melbourne, Australia. You can follow her on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PetsBehavingBadlyDrKate/" target="_blank">Facebook</a> or subscribe to her blog <a href="https://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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This blog post is part of the 2018 Companion Animal Psychology #Train4Rewards blog party. Click on the button below to read lots of other great blogs on animal training...<br />
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<a href="https://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2018/06/the-train-for-rewards-blog-party-2018.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="150" data-original-width="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQFXR9Y4tVQj4nbdY2uRmhJcZCqSersqD7DexM8Mda9d0dzxK6WD7YMg4kGV3R53ACLr01Nud7DFFzr9qIvRu_24etFIQJib1alGbq2VZ_meDueH6_4Bw2_LJGrmgEVroaTbslcDVfXE/s1600/2018-train-for-rewards-butt.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br />Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-79343555568969956202018-03-03T18:18:00.000-08:002018-03-08T17:37:44.571-08:00How to Resolve Inappropriate Toileting in CatsDoes your cat go to the toilet in all the wrong places?<br />
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Inappropriate toileting is the most common cat behaviour problem I'm called in to assist with. It's a messy, smelly and frustrating issue for many cat owners and can be a source of stress and anxiety for both human and feline family members.<br />
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So why do cats toilet inappropriately and how can this behaviour be resolved?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvGu5sXNUwJvPZcYHVzOKGm4rR51sFaCbjCwM8pYu-tCYiN-sWkAbgmfjUDZ8ptARSQocouY58o-yVm9K9c-pdnHMZpJCIsvP_dw7N6GYss-yvlAKZVPt_giIxVTlBjuFvFrqQ4BFgpk/s1600/cat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvGu5sXNUwJvPZcYHVzOKGm4rR51sFaCbjCwM8pYu-tCYiN-sWkAbgmfjUDZ8ptARSQocouY58o-yVm9K9c-pdnHMZpJCIsvP_dw7N6GYss-yvlAKZVPt_giIxVTlBjuFvFrqQ4BFgpk/s320/cat.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h3>
What is inappropriate toileting?</h3>
The term "inappropriate toileting" (also called inappropriate elimination) is an umbrella term which covers several elimination problems in cats. These include urine marking/spraying; inappropriate urination and/or defecation. Simply put - any form of elimination done inside the home and outside of the litter tray.<br />
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In my consulting work, as a behaviourist, I've seen cats that toilet inappropriately or spray on clothes, shoes, handbags, shopping bags, suitcases, carpet, furniture, human beds, dog beds, in the bath/shower, sinks, wardrobes, on walls, doors and even in a water bowl!!<br />
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<h3>
Causes of Inappropriate Toileting in Cats</h3>
If your cat toilets inappropriately the first thing to do is to make an appointment for a check up at the vet. A number of physical issues, such as UTI's and bladder infections, can be responsible for initiating toileting problems and must be addressed before the issue is treated as behavioural. Cats that experience pain or discomfort whilst using their litter tray can then associate using the tray with a feeling of pain or discomfort. This can result in the cat avoiding using the litter tray in future, even though the health issue may have resolved.<br />
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If a health or medical reason has been ruled out it's fair to assume the problem is behavioural. There are many reasons why a cat might stop using it litter tray. Here are some of the more common reasons I encounter in my work:<br />
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<h4>
A lack of prior litter training</h4>
Learning to toilet in the right place is behaviour kittens learn from their mother. Kittens that were separated from their mother and siblings too early often miss out on this early learning. The environment in which the kitten was raised also affects their toileting habits. For example, kittens that were not given ready access to litter trays may not necessarily understand how to use one when they go to their new home.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuC4Nh9wqMp1qRX9YrAE1BUk0dIkOttOO3yVgm1k8SqSVHMYOu7OlQw_Q9lyxmD03WEwo-bAXgVzu_U83THnEeGkTXIyZuUqy44bka6TAkwzKPGw8zuGQVpHXE-NSc-QPgEXdPhRPHikI/s1600/kittens-555822_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="890" data-original-width="1600" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuC4Nh9wqMp1qRX9YrAE1BUk0dIkOttOO3yVgm1k8SqSVHMYOu7OlQw_Q9lyxmD03WEwo-bAXgVzu_U83THnEeGkTXIyZuUqy44bka6TAkwzKPGw8zuGQVpHXE-NSc-QPgEXdPhRPHikI/s320/kittens-555822_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kittens learn where to toilet appropriately from an early age</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Negative association with the litter tray</h4>
When a cat suddenly stops using their litter tray sometimes it's due to a negative association. This can occur for several reasons including the location, orientation or design of the tray. For example, I once had a consultation with a cat who suddenly stopped using the litter tray after moving house. After assessing the cat and the new home environment I saw that the tray was placed right next to the dryer, which was quite loud when in use. Once the tray was moved away from the dryer, the cat started using it again.<br />
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The tray design and litter type also matter. Choose a tray style your cat is accustomed to and comfortable with. I see many cat owners choosing small or enclosed litter trays for large cats who have difficulty using them comfortably. Cats can also develop a strong substrate preference in terms of the type of litter material they prefer. Try to keep the litter consistent from when they were a kitten or conduct a 'substrate test' in which you offer several different types of litter at once and see if your cat prefers a specific type. Then, stick with that one.<br />
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<h4>
Competition for access to litter trays in multi-cat homes</h4>
<div>
The general rule for the provision of litter trays in indoor only multi-cat households in one tray per cat plus an additional tray. This may sound excessive, however cats are highly territorial by nature and often avoid using trays that hold a strong scent of another cat, even one they live with and get along well with. Eliminating competition for access to trays can help reduce inappropriate toileting.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaYkivZfAUKg5V9qXpoLGv1mzZ4AXqHAxxRUc1dJnBdrsMCHh6KD2KQu8mSc6qjQZS3ZXN4r0QniDIH-BmKC3E79JJKL20n1VP3_92tYoFOCmLZTSLRBGz8dEagrfsJaGh5Qi4VTISRmg/s1600/1024px-Japanese_litter_box_in_use.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="1024" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaYkivZfAUKg5V9qXpoLGv1mzZ4AXqHAxxRUc1dJnBdrsMCHh6KD2KQu8mSc6qjQZS3ZXN4r0QniDIH-BmKC3E79JJKL20n1VP3_92tYoFOCmLZTSLRBGz8dEagrfsJaGh5Qi4VTISRmg/s320/1024px-Japanese_litter_box_in_use.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Litter trays should be comfortable to use and cleaned daily. This one is too small and the high walls impact negatively on the position of the tail<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Image: By Ocdp CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h4>
Territorial behaviour</h4>
<div>
Cats are highly territorial animals by nature. In the wild, they go to great lengths to maintain a territory and keep others away because their survival depends on it. Even though domestic cats are provided with everything they need to survive (indeed, thrive!), they still retain the instincts to protect their territory. Urine marking is one way cats communicate that territory is occupied. It's a normal feline behaviour which becomes unacceptable when done in our homes.<br />
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Cats from multi-cat homes are more likely to toilet inappropriately because they have to share their territory and resources (litter trays, toys, cat towers, scratch posts etc) with other cats. Cats confined to smaller homes, such as apartments and units, also tend to be more likely to toilet inappropriately because they have less available territory. But it's not just other cats in the home that contribute to territorial spraying, neighbourhood cats encroaching on your cat's territory can also be a contributing factor.<br />
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<h4>
Stress/anxiety</h4>
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Stressed and anxious cats are more likely to toilet inappropriately. Common triggers for stress/anxiety-related inappropriate toileting include moving house, the owner travelling for long periods, the introduction of a new companion animal, the arrival of a new baby and a neighbourhood cat encroaching on your cat's territory. Try to establish the cause of the stress/anxiety and alleviate it. If you don't know how, contact a qualified behaviourist for help. Anti-anxiety medication may be needed to allow behaviour modification to be successful and this can be discussed with your vet.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6JpQvVxpM-NdRJxxsVm1YjMHx7DSSw7DJSMa4KQ-eg0Xrl-f5xCLmLyVmNl1xOBCiwlD2osRVc2u2xhrS6nqIaLfgS9ngn0_lSHMwOX21dgZm3aOpqhsJcLA5vOKdX48lhWikKBsN0Qk/s1600/boy-470939_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1267" data-original-width="1600" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6JpQvVxpM-NdRJxxsVm1YjMHx7DSSw7DJSMa4KQ-eg0Xrl-f5xCLmLyVmNl1xOBCiwlD2osRVc2u2xhrS6nqIaLfgS9ngn0_lSHMwOX21dgZm3aOpqhsJcLA5vOKdX48lhWikKBsN0Qk/s320/boy-470939_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The arrival of a baby or a new pet can stress out a resident cat</td></tr>
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<h3>
Working to Resolve Inappropriate Toileting</h3>
In many cases there is no quick fix for inappropriate toileting because it can be such a complex issue. That said, taking the following steps can help reduce, and even resolve, it in many cases.<br />
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<ul>
<li>Thoroughly clean previous stains using an enzymatic cleaner to remove all traces of the stain. A black light torch can be useful in assisting to identify and clean all previous stains. Check the house every few days and clean any new marks.</li>
<li>Provide an adequate number of litter trays in appropriate locations. Avoid busy thoroughfares and noisy spaces. Cat's need to feel safe when using the litter tray. </li>
<li>Clean litter trays daily. Some cats don't like to toilet in a tray containing a strong scent of another cat.</li>
<li>Identify and alleviate sources of stress and anxiety where possible. Calming aids such as a pheromone diffuser and natural supplements may assist.</li>
<li>Increase available territory with more vertical spaces. Window hammocks, cat towers and shelving work well. Elevated spaces help cats feel safe and secure and can help reduce stress and anxiety.</li>
<li>Reinforce litter use with positive consequences (i.e. high value treats and praise). Going to the toilet (whether in a litter tray, outside or in the wrong place) is a self-rewarding behaviour. The consequence is a sense of relief no matter where they go. By make it highly reinforcing to toilet in the litter tray you make it more likely the behaviour will be repeated.</li>
<li>Cover couches and prevent access to rooms of the home where your cat toilets inappropriately until the issue has resolved. It can be very difficult to completely remove all traces of urine from carpets and soft furnishings, so prevention is better than cure!</li>
<li>Use deterrents such as aluminium foil or plastic sheeting in areas where your cat has toileted inappropriately to discourage them in future.</li>
</ul>
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<div>
If you've tried all my tips and your cat is still toileting in the wrong places, it's time to call in an animal behaviourist to thoroughly assess the situation and your cat's behaviour. As I explained in the introduction of this article, this can be a very complex problem requiring an in-depth analysis by a qualified and experienced professional. Addressing this issue sooner, rather than later, provides a much better opportunity to successfully resolve it.</div>
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Dr Kate :)</div>
Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-58996140513651811442018-01-03T16:46:00.000-08:002018-01-04T13:03:16.939-08:00Environmental Enrichment Ideas for Your Companion ParrotWelcome to my latest blog post in a series looking at environmental enrichment for companion animals. The previous posts looked at ways to provide enrichment to pet <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com.au/2017/09/environmental-enrichment-ideas-for-your.html" target="_blank">dogs</a> and <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com.au/2017/09/environmental-enrichment-ideas-for-your_27.html" target="_blank">cats</a>. In this post I will discuss the importance of environmental enrichment for parrots and the best ways to enrich your companion parrot's life.<br />
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From the relatively small (and more common) budgies, lovebirds and cockatiels all the way up to the larger Cockatoos and Macaws, parrots come in an amazing range of sizes, colours and personalities. Unlike cats and dogs, companion parrots have not undergone thousands of years of captive breeding for the purpose of domestication. This essentially means they remain wild animals in terms of their behaviour (Hoppes & Gray 2010).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBRT3bE7JiZZHkl6mZyrzWVcNE8OwE6O7N9eIkgp8o6MIHu2fViwxNCqEnXnq7OKqgffTirZUHdq9-8iZF5yo5mPI031EsA_YNZVbtEbjda_qVq2NP1ZrtGktdSfieFM6mVYM0J8WHYDw/s1600/ara-856574_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="1600" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBRT3bE7JiZZHkl6mZyrzWVcNE8OwE6O7N9eIkgp8o6MIHu2fViwxNCqEnXnq7OKqgffTirZUHdq9-8iZF5yo5mPI031EsA_YNZVbtEbjda_qVq2NP1ZrtGktdSfieFM6mVYM0J8WHYDw/s320/ara-856574_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Green Winged Macaw foraging</td></tr>
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In the wild parrots live in flocks with a <a href="http://www.nimbios.org/press/FS_parrots" target="_blank">sophisticated social structure and complex interactions</a>, the basis of which is the pair bond. Parrots can fly hundred of kilometres per day and spend hours of their day foraging for food and interacting with other members of their flock. Contrast this to the life of a companion parrot confined to a cage, alone for much of the day. The captive parrot shares the desire to perform the same innate behaviours as their wild counterparts, however their ability to do so is limited within the constraints of their cage and the home environment (Mornement, 2018).<br />
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<h3>
Why do companion parrots need enrichment?</h3>
Companion parrots need enrichment to provide them with opportunities to perform species specific behaviour, which is critical for their mental and physical well-being. Even though many pet parrots are provided with everything they need to <i>survive</i> (i.e. food, water, shelter and human social interaction), they must be provided with opportunities to engage in normal parrot behaviours, including foraging, bathing, flying, problem solving, preening and socialising, regularly in order to <i>thrive</i>.<br />
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In my work as an applied animal behaviourist, I see many companion parrots who have developed behaviour problems because they are unable to <i>be</i> parrots. Some common problems I encounter are feather picking disorder, excessive vocalisation (screaming) and aggression due to fear, territorial behaviour or mate defence.<br />
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By providing daily enrichment opportunities, companion parrots can express species-specific behaviours in an appropriate way. This can help to alleviate problem behaviours and even prevent them in the first place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzIPuRQGATdKSnGHnIKPRu07wFu50vh-Y-VLoqPkZyLXpjRfU6OfbejXGClZdrw5cuhKSK2oTCTdalofKWaEIhYHxCSx0i-C6RNgrYgUgIz2ME1A4PnyfxlqPaNFNcAcAftJb-DKgrWE4/s1600/1024px-Psittacus_erithacus_-feather_plucking_-pet-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="844" data-original-width="1024" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzIPuRQGATdKSnGHnIKPRu07wFu50vh-Y-VLoqPkZyLXpjRfU6OfbejXGClZdrw5cuhKSK2oTCTdalofKWaEIhYHxCSx0i-C6RNgrYgUgIz2ME1A4PnyfxlqPaNFNcAcAftJb-DKgrWE4/s320/1024px-Psittacus_erithacus_-feather_plucking_-pet-6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An African Grey parrot exhibiting feather picking disorder<br />
<a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3APsittacus_erithacus_-feather_plucking_-pet-6.jpg" target="_blank">Image by JoelZimmer (CC BY-SA 2.0)</a></td></tr>
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<h3>
Types of enrichment</h3>
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If you've read my other posts in this series, you'll remember that environmental enrichment can be Animate (social) and Inanimate (physical). Animate enrichment is the provision of social stimulation from interaction with other birds or people. Whereas inanimate enrichment involves interaction with objects including toys, feeding enrichment, olfactory and auditory stimulation.</div>
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<h3>
Enrichment ideas for your parrot</h3>
The best enrichment for companion parrots facilitates behaviours seen in the wild and provides opportunities for mental stimulation (problem solving), social interaction and physical exercise.<br />
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<h4>
Social enrichment</h4>
Parrots are highly social flock animals and need social enrichment every day. Many species are long-lived and most form strong attachment bonds to their caregivers. Having two (or more) companion parrots can help provide much needed socialisation with other birds, which is very beneficial if the owner works full time. If you only have one bird, it's critical to allow your companion parrot time out of its cage every day to be with you. Spend time talking and playing with your parrot daily. Training is a great way to share time together in a productive way (see below).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJ7o5usjexvzDpsVTiNixKFUCcBQJbaNVxGcYD26NRkgTq7zYR2i7kGPIq70bO53CKS5M76UhtzLMqbJAhaF88c0JbDqqOiTm8tY-eXM9_MSOkagSkcLHtOEQz1lBAVS_Wk7K_s1Ne-Y/s1600/rainbow-lorikeets-433436_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJ7o5usjexvzDpsVTiNixKFUCcBQJbaNVxGcYD26NRkgTq7zYR2i7kGPIq70bO53CKS5M76UhtzLMqbJAhaF88c0JbDqqOiTm8tY-eXM9_MSOkagSkcLHtOEQz1lBAVS_Wk7K_s1Ne-Y/s320/rainbow-lorikeets-433436_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wild Rainbow Lorikeets flocking</td></tr>
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<h4>
Feeding enrichment</h4>
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Parrots are no longer considered the "bird brains" of the animal world. Rather, the latest science is shining a light on the incredible intelligence and problem solving abilities of parrots (Milewski, 2015). Wild living parrots spend a good proportion of their day finding and foraging for food. This requires thinking, problem solving and physical activity. For this reason, companion parrots should be fed from <a href="http://www.parrotenrichment.com/foraging-toys.html" target="_blank">foraging toys</a>, rather than eating ad lib from a bowl.<br />
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Parrots also have complex and varied species-specific dietary and nutritional needs. The diets of many wild parrot species remain poorly understood. An appropriate diet it critical to your companion parrots health and well-being. If you're unsure whether you're feeding your bird an appropriate diet, check with a knowledgeable breeder or avian veterinarian.</div>
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<h4>
Training</h4>
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Many people have unrealistic expectations of their bird's behaviour. Parrots are naturally loud, messy, destructive and mischievous. However, these normal parrot behaviours in a home environment can be problematic for many people. Companion parrots need to be taught appropriate behaviours, such as chewing on appropriate items, vocalising in desired ways (i.e. not screaming loudly) and toileting in certain areas, when living in our homes. Positive reinforcement training is the most effective way to teach parrots desired behaviour. Here is <a href="http://ftlob.rescuegroups.org/info/file?file=22963.pdf" target="_blank">an introduction to positive reinforcement and its benefits for companion parrots</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsNhTeWp7F5k9hqTHSRMbAVhumBRnQYQqA2nKx6a3rdwUlAQOr0U4g2M_1D8intQrADNcMxgRjMHjHG-OsUdIyJjIccKzLOS58NJeTNWT8KtTkccrNMgyZsNET9O3MCaLq06iqqfnkFQ/s1600/parrots-1149970_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsNhTeWp7F5k9hqTHSRMbAVhumBRnQYQqA2nKx6a3rdwUlAQOr0U4g2M_1D8intQrADNcMxgRjMHjHG-OsUdIyJjIccKzLOS58NJeTNWT8KtTkccrNMgyZsNET9O3MCaLq06iqqfnkFQ/s320/parrots-1149970_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Food can be used to reinforce a pet parrot for flying to your hand</td></tr>
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<h4>
Physical enrichment</h4>
Allowing your bird daily flight opportunities is extremely enriching. Flight facilitates physical exercise and problem solving. It also allows for a quick get away if the bird is frightened. The downside of allowing your bird to fly is that our homes are full of potential dangers (e.g. windows, open doors, electrical cords, stoves etc).<br />
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The practice of clipping one or both wings of companion parrots to reduce or prevent their ability to fly, although controversial, remains popular today. Most people clip their birds wings for safety reasons or to make the birds easier to handle. I am now firmly against this practice in most cases for a number of reasons. My knowledge and experience to date clearly suggests that preventing parrots from their right to flight severely compromises their welfare. That's all I'm going to say about it for now and will write about the topic in depth in a future blog post.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvBvsPrv7pXEbIdXw29MB7LzV2OW-mADkdC0HEKY8YpP7VcfgWJKEvSnLVtdAtyW2WUVVx6T-MJSz7Qtkm2fo2yURokJ59fddp9aBHPozbYSSYi5w3XRREUc5j3CpjcFnMNU85KgYkCgE/s1600/1280px-Cacatua_moluccensis_excited.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="925" data-original-width="1280" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvBvsPrv7pXEbIdXw29MB7LzV2OW-mADkdC0HEKY8YpP7VcfgWJKEvSnLVtdAtyW2WUVVx6T-MJSz7Qtkm2fo2yURokJ59fddp9aBHPozbYSSYi5w3XRREUc5j3CpjcFnMNU85KgYkCgE/s320/1280px-Cacatua_moluccensis_excited.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Moluccan Cockatoo with wings clipped</td></tr>
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Other ways to provide physical enrichment include toys that promote your parrot to use its beak and feet to manipulate them as well as items that encourage your parrot to climb. Things like parrot play gyms (made out of natural timber), swings and ropes work well. Daily opportunities to bathe is another way to enrich your parrots life. Bathing is not only enjoyable for birds but it's vital for their skin and feather health, helping to promote preening.<br />
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Parrots are highly sensitive creatures who need their physical and behavioural needs met (and ideally exceeded) to live a happy life in captivity. Problem behaviours are common in companion parrots, particularly when one or more of their biological needs are not being sufficiently met.<br />
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If you'd like to learn more about how you can provide your parrot with enrichment download these FREE parrot enrichment activity books, written by a parrot enrichment specialist <a href="http://www.parrotenrichment.com/home.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>. I'd love to hear about other ways you enrich your parrot's life. Feel free to share your ideas in the comments section!<br />
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Dr Kate :)<br />
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<h3>
References</h3>
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Hoppes, S & Gray, P. (2010). Parrot rescue organizations and sanctuaries: A growing presence in 2010. Journal of Exotic Pet Medicine, 19(2), 133-139.</div>
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Meehan, C. L. Garner, J. P. & Mench, J. A. (2004). Environmental enrichment and development of cage stereotypy in Orange-winged Amazon parrots (Amazona amazonica). <i>Developmental Psychobiology</i>, 44(4), 209-218.</div>
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Meehan, C. L. Millam, J. R. & Mench, J. A. (2003). Foraging opportunity and increased physical complexity both prevent and reduce psychogenic feather picking by young Amazon parrots. <i>Applied Animal Behaviour Science</i>, 80(1), 71-85.</div>
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Milewski, A. (2015). New intelligence on Australian parrots. <i>Wildlife Australia</i>, 52(4), 28.</div>
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<div>
Mornement, K. (2018). Animals as Companion, In Animals and Human Society (pp.281-304).</div>
Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-38921382836998677472017-09-27T19:20:00.002-07:002017-09-27T21:23:20.903-07:00Environmental Enrichment Ideas for Your CatFollowing on from my recent blog posts about <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com.au/2017/09/wild-at-heart-why-enrichment-is.html" target="_blank">the importance of environmental enrichment for companion animals</a>, and <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com.au/2017/09/environmental-enrichment-ideas-for-your.html" target="_blank">environmental enrichment ideas for pet dogs</a>, this blog post is all about enrichment ideas for cats!<br />
<b><br /></b>Felids are obligate carnivores, specialising on a diet of animal meat and organs. In the wild, cats are free to express the full range of their normal behaviour, including feeding behaviours through locating, stalking, chasing, capturing and killing their prey; behaviours which require time, problem solving and intense activity. In contrast, the artificial and predictable environment of captivity frustrates the normal behaviour of wild felids and can lead to the development of abnormal behaviour and psychological disorders (Damasceno & Genaro, 2014).<br />
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Despite the fact that companion cats are domesticated, they too retain the instincts to perform normal, species-specific behaviour. Species-specific behaviours of the cat are very similar to that of it's wild relative, the African wildcat, and to free-roaming cats. These include social family rankings, elimination and feeding behaviours (Overall, 2005). When owners understand these normal behaviours and provide appropriate outlets for them, the behaviours are less likely to be expressed in a problematic way.<br />
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As is the case with pet dogs, our modern lifestyle is frequently in opposition to the life our companion cats evolved to live. Increasingly, pet cats are confined to the home and many do not have regular access to the outdoors. Although this keeps them and our native animals safe, many cats spend long periods of time in isolation unable to exhibit normal hunting or social behaviours. Consequently, these cats often develop problem behaviours such as aggression towards their owners (or animals living in the home); destructive scratching and inappropriate toileting inside the house.<br />
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<h3>
Types of Enrichment</h3>
Environment enrichment can be divided into Animate (or social) and Inanimate (physical). Animate enrichment comprises social stimulation arising from interaction with a member of the same species (infraspecific), different species (interspecific) or both. Inanimate enrichment involves interaction with inanimate objects such as toys, feeding enrichment, olfactory or auditory stimulation (Kiddie et al., 2017).<br />
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<h3>
Enrichment Ideas for Your Cat</h3>
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When deciding what kind of environmental enrichment to give your cat, it's important to consider your cat's breed/breed type, temperament and personality, age, health, likes and dislikes. Observe your cat's behaviour and take note of the activities they engage in of their own accord. This will provide clues about the types of enrichment your cat might enjoy most. For example, does your cat go crazy for catnip? Or do they display a strong preference for certain kinds of toys? Or is food the number one thing on your cat's agenda? Another important consideration for companion cats is that they prefer high places. This is especially true in multi-cat or multi-pet households. Being able to get high up helps cats feel safe and secure and gives them a great view of their surroundings. Tall cat towers, window beds and high shelving are just some ways to provide high up places.<br />
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Social Enrichment</h4>
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Cats have the ability to live in social groups under conditions where food and space is plentiful. Affiliative behaviours such as also-grooming, also-play, nose touching and maintaining physical contact have been observed in social groups between certain individuals, indicating a preference for spending time with particular individuals. This means that opportunities to spend time with other cats may have welfare benefits under specific circumstances and where there is no competition for access to high value resources such as food, water, toileting areas and outdoor space (Ellis, 2009).<br />
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Feeding Enrichment</h4>
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No wild-living cat gets their food for free, served up in a bowl, without having to work for it. Wild felids spend time finding, hunting and stalking their prey. They expend energy and problem solve in their attempt to catch prey. Contrast this to our domesticated cats. Even though we feed our pet cats a good quality daily diet, they still retain the instinct to perform hunting behaviour and to seek and find food. In fact, research shows that all animals prefer to work for food. It's called <i><a href="http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0003347296903206" target="_blank">contra freeloading</a></i>.<br />
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Feeding enrichment can be provided by feeding you cat exclusively from interactive food dispensing or puzzle toys. There are numerous such toys on the market (just Google "cat food toys") so choose one that suits the type of food you feed. For cats fed dry food we like the <a href="https://www.kongcompany.com/en-au/products/cats/treat-dispensers/treat-dispensers/cat-wobbler/" target="_blank">Kong Wobbler for cats</a> or you could use an empty water bottle with the lid removed. If you feed your cat wet food, try using a muffin tray or an old egg carton and filling each compartment with a spoon of food. A small sized dog Kong can also work.<br />
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<h4>
Play Enrichment</h4>
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<div>
Daily play sessions are essential to provide your cat with an appropriate outlet for normal hunting behaviour (i.e. stalking, chasing, biting). The best toys are those that mimic prey, such as feathers attached to a fishing rod waved in the air to mimic a bird in flight or a furry toy that moves along the ground mimicking a rodent. Da Bird is a great example. You can see it in action <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoiGeuiiwII" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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The <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlCktJ8JTiw" target="_blank">Cat Dancer</a> is another popular enrichment toy. It's movement mimics insects in flight. Toys that roll along the ground also entice cats to chase them and they need not be expensive. Scrunched up pieces of paper or even aluminium foil can make cheap and entertaining toys, as can empty cardboard boxes, pen lids and hair ties - as long as your cat doesn't chew or swallow them!<br />
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Appropriate outlets for hunting behaviour can help avoid aggression problems towards people and other animals living in the home. Play is also important to provide physical exercise which releases endorphins and reduces stress and boredom. Click <a href="http://For more ideas click here for the most popular cat toys on Amazon." target="_blank">here</a> for the most popular cat toys on Amazon. If you're in Australia, like me, <a href="http://www.kmart.com.au/category/home-&-entertainment/home-by-category/pets/cat/cat-toys-&-towers/413011" target="_blank">Kmart have a wonderful range of cat toys</a> starting at just $2! Remember to rotate toys often and introduce new toys every now and then to maintain your cats interest.<br />
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<h4>
Sensory Enrichment</h4>
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Sensory enrichment can be provided in numerous ways. Water fountains (instead of a water bowl), pheromones, scents and herbs (e.g. catnip and cat grass) can all help stimulate the seeking system and a cat's curiosity. If your cat enjoys being groomed, a daily brush can be an enriching experience.<br />
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Cat videos and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnUC-TOyrVw&t=20s" target="_blank">cat games on YouTube</a> showing real and animated animals can provide hours of entertainment, as can a number of phone and iPad Apps designed specifically for cats. Similarly, a window view of birds outside can be enthralling, as long as it doesn't upset your cat.<br />
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Cats are highly territorial and like to mark their territory with their smell. They do this by rubbing their cheeks on furniture (and people!) and by scratching objects which also deposits scent from glands on their paws. It's important to provide your cat with opportunities to express this normal feline behaviour in appropriate ways. Scratching posts, cat towers and scratch mats work well and help avoid your cat targeting your couch or curtains.<br />
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<h4>
Outdoor Enrichment</h4>
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Many councils in Australia and other countries now enforce "cat curfews" stipulating that pet cats must be confined to the owners property at certain times of the day (usually night time) or permanently. Allowing cats the opportunity to spend time outside is crucial for their well-being. Outdoor access provides many benefits such as additional space (territory), sensory stimulation through new smells, sights, sunshine etc.<br />
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Whether you live in an apartment or a large house, own your home or rent, there are numerous options available to allow your exclusively indoor cat safe access to the outdoors. <a href="http://www.catnets.com.au/" target="_blank">Cat netting</a> is a great option allowing balconies, courtyards or a small section of the backyard to be sectioned off. If you're handy with the tools, you can save money with this option and do it yourself! Other companies offer <a href="https://www.backyardcatenclosures.com.au/" target="_blank">outdoor cat enclosures</a> and <a href="http://www.bettapetsystems.com.au/" target="_blank">cat runs</a> which vary considerably in their design and cost. Some companies will design and build a solution specific to your needs.<br />
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Remember that cats like to have access to high vantage points, where they feel safe and have a good view of their surroundings, so providing some elevated places in the outdoor space is important. You are really only limited by your imagination when it comes to providing safe outdoor space for your cat!<br />
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I've really just scratched the surface when it comes to providing your cat with environmental enrichment. I'd LOVE to hear about the kinds of things you do to enrich your cat's life! Leave a comment and share your tips.<br />
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References</h4>
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Damasceno, J. & Genaro, G., (2014). Dynamics of the access of captive domestic cats to a feed environmental enrichment item. <i>Applied Animal Behaviour Science</i>, 151, 67-74.<br />
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Ellis, S. L. (2009). Environmental enrichment: practical strategies for improving feline welfare. <i>Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery,</i> 11, 901-912<br />
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Kiddie, J., Bodymore, A., Dittrich, A., & Phillips, C. (2017). Environmental Enrichment in Kennelled Pit Bull Terriers ( Canis lupus familiaris ). Animals: An Open Access Journal from MDPI, 7(4), Animals: an Open Access Journal from MDPI, 2017, Vol.7(4).<br />
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Overall, K. L. (1997). Clinical behavioural medicine for small animals. Mosby - Year book Inc<br />
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Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-43547772645974513972017-09-13T22:02:00.002-07:002017-09-13T22:48:44.626-07:00Environmental Enrichment Ideas for Your DogIn my <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com.au/2017/09/wild-at-heart-why-enrichment-is.html" target="_blank">last blog post</a>, I explained what environmental enrichment is and discussed it's importance for your pet's wellbeing. Now I'm going to describe some of the best ways to provide environmental enrichment for your pet, starting with dogs. But first, here's a reminder why it's so important...<br />
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Our modern lifestyle places dogs under enormous pressure. With the ever-increasing human population, particularly in major cities, many of us opt for apartment or unit-living as a more convenient and affordable housing option. We then expect our companion dogs to live happily with us in our smaller abodes, content with a daily walk, and to behave appropriately while we're at work all day. This expectation is unrealistic.<br />
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Remember that all the dog breeds we have today were originally developed to perform a job: Border Collies and Australian Kelpies herded livestock; Labradors and English Springer Spaniels were used as gun dogs to flush and retrieve game; German Shepherds, although originally used for herding, were and continue to be utilised for police and military work. Many of the smaller breeds, including the Dachshund, Italian Greyhound, Pomeranian and Shih Tzu were used to hunt small animals and as watch dogs. While some dogs are still used for these jobs, the majority now spend their lives as our companions.<br />
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The reality is that many dogs are living in environments in which they are unable to exhibit normal behaviour leading to boredom, frustration and behaviour problems such as excessive barking, destructive behaviour and house soiling. In addition, research shows that social and spatial restriction and too little environmental variability can cause dogs chronic stress, fear and frustration which can also lead to the expression of undesired behaviour, particularly separation anxiety (Kiddie et al., 2017).<br />
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This is why environmental enrichment is so important for our pet dogs. The goals of enrichment are to increase behavioural choices and facilitate species appropriate behaviours in order to reduce abnormal and problem behaviour; increase positive utilisation of the environment; increase the animal's ability to cope with challenges and, overall; to enhance welfare (Kiddie et al., 2017).<br />
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Types of Enrichment</h3>
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Broadly speaking, environmental enrichment can be divided into <i>Animate</i> (or social) and <i>Inanimate</i> (or physical). Animate enrichment involves interaction with a human or other dog(s) whereas inanimate enrichment involves interaction with inanimate objects such as toys, feeding enrichment, olfactory or auditory stimulation (Kiddie et al., 2017). Dogs need both animate and inanimate enrichment for optimal wellbeing.</div>
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Enrichment Ideas for Your Dog</h3>
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When deciding what kind of environmental enrichment to give your dog, it's important to consider your dog's breed/breed type, their temperament and personality, their age, health as well as their likes and dislikes. Research the behavioural and temperamental traits of your dog's breed/breed type if you are not familiar with them already. Observe your dog's behaviour and take note of the activities they engage in of their own accord. This will provide clues about the types of enrichment your dog might enjoy most. For example, does your dog <i>really</i> enjoy playing and interacting with other dogs or do they generally prefer the company of people? Is your dog head over heels for balls and fetch, tug games or do they prefer to sniff everything?<br />
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Here are some of the most popular ways to provide enrichment for your dog:</div>
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Social Enrichment</h4>
Positive interactions and experiences with a variety of people and other dogs is important throughout every dog's life to maintain their sociability. Including your dog in activities and outings, while ensuring they're having a positive experience, will help develop their confidence and engage their senses. This is particularly important when it comes to your vet and groomer. Ensure your dog has many more positive experiences with the vet/groomer compared to negative experiences to avoid them developing fear/anxiety-based aggression. This can be as simple as taking your dog to the vet/groomer when you don't have an appointment and feeding your dog some yummy treats or having the staff do so.<br />
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Dedicated dog parks are a great place to take friendly, sociable dogs who interact well with other dogs. Unfortunately, though, some owners take dogs to these parks that are unsuitable because they're aggressive, anti-social or too boisterous which can cause real problems.<br />
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Some dog owners believe their dog should be friendly and sociable with every other dog it encounters and this is an unrealistic expectation. Just like we pick and choose our friends, based on having things in common and getting along well, dogs also have preferences when it comes to other dogs. Rather than expecting and allowing your dog to interact with every dog it meets, which often leads to conflict, allow your dog to play and interact only with other dogs you know they like and get along well with. Regular play dates with the same dogs are a great way to provide your dog with social enrichment in a safe environment.<br />
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Feeding Enrichment</h4>
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No wild-living animal gets their food for free, given in clean bowl. Every. Single. Day. Even though our pet dogs are domesticated and don't need to hunt and scavenge for food, they still retain the instinct to seek and find food. In fact, research shows that animals prefer to work for food rather than get it of free - this phenomenon is called <i>contra freeloading </i>(Iglis et al., 1997).</div>
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One of the easiest way to provide enrichment for your dog is to feed them their meals exclusively from a food dispensing toy. Doing so encourages mental problem solving and physical activity as your dog engages with the toy in an attempt to get the food. If you feed dry food, try the <a href="https://www.kongcompany.com/en-au/products/for-dogs/interactive-toys/wobbler/wobbler/" target="_blank">Kong Wobbler</a>, a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJQY08LPfts" target="_blank">Snuffle Mat</a> or <a href="http://www.allforpawspet.com/Product?idvariant=378" target="_blank">interactive food maze toy</a>. If you feed canned or raw food, try stuffing it into the <a href="http://northmate.com/category/products/green/" target="_blank">Green Feeder</a> or the Outward Hound <a href="https://outwardhound.com/slow-eating-stop-bloat-dog-bowls-and-feeders.html" target="_blank">Fun Feeder</a>. Varying your dog's diet, if appropriate, is another great way to provide enrichment.<br />
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Puzzle toys, such as those made by <a href="http://www.nina-ottosson.com/products/all-products/" target="_blank">Nina Ottosson</a>, can be used to feed your dog their meals or as a challenge to find special treats. These are high quality products that are made to last and are a great investment for dogs that enjoy problem solving. They vary in their degree of difficulty so choose one to suit your dog's skill level. These toys can provide entertainment for a period of time and are wonderful for dogs that spend hours at home while their owners are working.</div>
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Play Enrichment</h4>
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TOYS!!! Most dogs LOVE toys. Toys are a great way to provide appropriate outlets for normal dog behaviours such as chewing, mouthing, biting, licking, chasing and tugging. When these behaviours are directed towards people they're totally inappropriate, but when dogs use toys as outlets for these behaviours, it's completely acceptable.<br />
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Think about how your dog engages in play with toys. Are they a toy destroyer, determined to rip apart every toy you give them? If so, look for high quality and durable toys, such as those made by <a href="https://www.kongcompany.com/en-au/" target="_blank">Kong</a> and <a href="https://aussiedog.com.au/" target="_blank">Aussie Dog Products</a>. These companies make a fantastic variety of toys for dogs that love to chew, tug and chase. It's important to provide these dogs with an appropriate outlet to avoid your clothing, furniture or household items being destroyed.<br />
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If your dog loves soft toys, try <a href="http://www.luckypet.com.au/hide-a-squirrel.html" target="_blank">Hide a Squirrel</a> which combines the fun of squeaky toys and problem solving. Your local op shop is another great place to find cheap soft toys.</div>
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Training Enrichment</h4>
Teaching your dog new tricks and behaviours provides an excellent form of enrichment. Learning requires problem solving and concentration and when coupled with positive reinforcement training, most dogs relish the opportunity to learn. Try short daily training sessions using high value treats to reward desired behaviour. If you'd like to learn more about how to train your dog effectively using a science-based and human training method, try <a href="https://clickertraining.com/get-started" target="_blank">Clicker Training</a>.<br />
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If you have a little more time and motivation, why not consider participating in a dog sport like agility, flyball, herding, lure coursing or nose work? Check out the <a href="http://pets4life.com.au/about-dogs-2/dog-sports-in-australia/" target="_blank">Pets4Life</a> website for a complete list of dog sports and clubs in Australia.<br />
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Outdoor Enrichment</h4>
If your dog spends hours home alone, providing a variety of enrichment while you're away is important. Outdoor tug toys such as the <a href="https://aus.tethertug.com/" target="_blank">Tether Tug</a> or <a href="https://aussiedog.com.au/product-category/alone/" target="_blank">Home Alone</a> by Aussie Dog Products are popular choices. In the warmer months, a <a href="http://www.kmart.com.au/product/sea-n-sand-pool/760801" target="_blank">clamshell pool/sandpit</a> can provide great entertainment for dogs that like water or for those that like to dig for treats and toys.<br />
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Being outdoors away from the home is incredibly enriching for dogs that spend a lot of time indoors or confined to the property. The new smells, sights, people and other dogs all add to the excitement. Daily walks, outings and even adventures to local beaches or walking trails that allow dogs provide incredibly rich experiences for dogs allowing them to engage all their senses. The <a href="http://dogsallowed.com.au/" target="_blank">Dogs Allowed</a> website is a great resource listing a variety of places, including parks, beaches, cafes and walking trails, in Australia that allow dogs.<br />
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There are many more ways to provide your dog with environmental enrichment and we would LOVE to hear what kinds of enrichment you give your dogs. Let us know in the comments section!</div>
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References:</h4>
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Kiddie, J., Bodymore, A., Dittrich, A., & Phillips, C. (2017). Environmental Enrichment in Kennelled Pit Bull Terriers ( Canis lupus familiaris ). Animals: An Open Access Journal from MDPI, 7(4), Animals: an Open Access Journal from MDPI, 2017, Vol.7(4).<br />
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Inglis, I. R., Forkman, B., & Lazarus, J. (1997). Free food or earned food? A review and fuzzy logic model of contrafreeloading. <i>Animal Behaviour, 53(6)</i>, 1171-1191.<br />
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Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-40567740202593382692017-09-05T23:42:00.000-07:002017-09-27T22:51:44.800-07:00Wild at Heart: Why Enrichment is Essential for Your Pet's Well-BeingYou've probably heard of the term "environmental enrichment". Most people associate environmental enrichment with captive animals, such as those living in zoos and aquariums, but did you know that environmental enrichment is important for your pet's well-being and welfare too?<br />
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A body of research from ethology, animal science and veterinary science has clearly demonstrated that animals have behavioural needs and that certain innate behaviours, such as nest building in birds, are highly motivated. In addition, neuroscience shows us that animal brains have complex emotional systems that serve as motivators for behaviour. The core emotional systems include seeking (novelty), fear, panic (e.g. separation stress), rage, lust, caring (e.g. nurturing young) and play (Morris et al 2014).<br />
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What is Environmental Enrichment?</h4>
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Broadly speaking, environmental enrichment involves the practice of increasing the physical, social and temporal complexity of captive environments (Carlsbad & Stepherdson, 2000).<br />
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Wild at Heart</h4>
Our modern day companion animals are relatives of wild species and, more recently, breeds originally developed to perform work such as herding, hunting guarding and retrieving. Despite this fact, when choosing their next animal companion, many people do not consider the breed or species-specific behaviour of the animal, rather their choice is made on the basis of appearance or the perceived status the pet will bring them (Whelan, 2010).<br />
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What are "species-specific behaviours?" Species-specific behaviours are actions and behaviours that animals have evolved to perform or carry out. They include things like foraging or hunting for food, establishing and maintaining a territory and protecting their territory from intruders. To provide appropriate environmental enrichment it's crucial that the natural history and behaviour of the breed or species is well understood. Cats and dogs are both members of the order Carnivora and they share species-specific behaviours similar to their wild counterparts. Similarly, companion parrots also share the same species-specific behaviours as their wild living relatives.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7i02u5D-leEzFyn8B05uIuEx0T8RiIz12NUW9ZzQzpyxOY1IxDSDa00QNlUTlM6DTy4HAVOIC7_5nowBm2FpynkNQ0zp9-sYeS9YNVvFzarT-Q0BzaqAV1HdScPbxXbPIR5w6xWpFao/s1600/cat-61079_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7i02u5D-leEzFyn8B05uIuEx0T8RiIz12NUW9ZzQzpyxOY1IxDSDa00QNlUTlM6DTy4HAVOIC7_5nowBm2FpynkNQ0zp9-sYeS9YNVvFzarT-Q0BzaqAV1HdScPbxXbPIR5w6xWpFao/s320/cat-61079_1920.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Many wild-living cat species are arboreal (live in trees)</td></tr>
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As with captive exotic animals, laboratory animals and livestock, our pets are also captive animals living by the constraints we place on them. Even though we provide them with everything they need to <i>survive</i> (i.e. food, water, shelter, vet care etc) we often don't realise they retain the instincts and desires to perform, and need outlets for the expression of, these behaviours in order to <i>thrive. </i>When we fail to provide ample opportunities for our pets to express natural behaviours or exercise as they normally would, unwanted negative behaviours can result (Whelan, 2010).<br />
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<b><i>Dogs:</i></b><br />
When considering the natural history of dogs, it's important to recognise breed differences. With over 150 different breeds in existence, originally developed to perform specific jobs, genetic differences in the strength of the core emotional systems are likely. For example, one dog may be a high seeker, constantly motivated to chase a ball, compared to another which is a low seeker, happy to live a more sedentary life. These days pet dogs are not required to perform the jobs they were originally bred for however those selected behavioural traits still remain. For example, the Border Collie that herds small children or the Doberman that barks at people walking past the home. These are normal behaviours for these breeds but are often considered problematic by dog owners (Morris et al, 2014).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip0j5nVCdvIU4iwcADpg3_SLeh28bl0tiKcDIIrvSro4j6uwgeHVNRJbjoysXmzjrmUcMCZNFVR9BwuE_x6ZQa10Zu3HY0OiUs8z_AckrgPukWyC0XnIZiQy2YTCeQiKNzeony1Vodlvo/s1600/dog-665159_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="1600" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip0j5nVCdvIU4iwcADpg3_SLeh28bl0tiKcDIIrvSro4j6uwgeHVNRJbjoysXmzjrmUcMCZNFVR9BwuE_x6ZQa10Zu3HY0OiUs8z_AckrgPukWyC0XnIZiQy2YTCeQiKNzeony1Vodlvo/s320/dog-665159_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This dog is highly motivated to fetch the ball</td></tr>
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<b><i>Cats:</i></b><br />
Increasingly, pet cats are confined to the home with many not having regular access to the outdoors. Although this keeps them safe from cars and other animals, many can spend long periods of time in isolation unable to exhibit hunting or social behaviours. Consequently, these cats often develop problem behaviours.<br />
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Species-specific behaviours of the cat are very similar to that of it's relatives, the African wildcat and to free-roaming cats, and include social family rankings, elimination and feeding behaviours (Overall et al, 2005). When owners understand these normal behaviours and provide appropriate outlets for them, the behaviours are less likely to be expressed in a problematic way.<br />
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Behavioural issues are a common reason for relinquishment of companion animals to shelters. As such, we must recognise the core emotional systems affecting behaviour and do our best to provide appropriate outlets for these systems through enrichment. This will help to reduce problem behaviour and the subsequent relinquishment of pets to animal shelters.<br />
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Benefits of Environmental Enrichment</h4>
Much of the research on the benefits of environmental enrichment to date has been performed on mice in a laboratory setting. These studies show that an enriched environment can provide numerous benefits including improved learning and memory, increased brain weight and size and enhanced activity of the opioid systems in the brain (van Praag et al, 2000). Research on captive exotic animals shows that enrichment can decrease aggression, increase activity, reduce the expression of abnormal behaviour and improve health and reproduction (Carlsbad & Stepherdson, 2000).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRcXCBF8iW9CohMcCY_pkBEXTlvA6_oJk0jPcl_3vlmamGiKtKOwbP20Uus0tktplNg3PIsFDINctQHzJ9xuuhaX1L9Bw0MyXiO8KryXq-4P7gIlMeo2HqYS2N4GKJ1ztC04J0UtW17xE/s1600/malinois-and-border-collie-788032_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="1600" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRcXCBF8iW9CohMcCY_pkBEXTlvA6_oJk0jPcl_3vlmamGiKtKOwbP20Uus0tktplNg3PIsFDINctQHzJ9xuuhaX1L9Bw0MyXiO8KryXq-4P7gIlMeo2HqYS2N4GKJ1ztC04J0UtW17xE/s320/malinois-and-border-collie-788032_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying some environmental enrichment!</td></tr>
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As our pet's guardians it is our responsibility to maintain not only their physical health, but their emotional health as well. Adequately providing for the mental health of our companion animals through environmental enrichment <i>before</i> the development of behaviour problems is key. Furthermore, the concept of environmental enrichment should be considered an essential component of pet husbandry rather than an optional addition.<br />
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Good enrichment should provide pets with opportunities to express behaviours driven by positive emotional systems of seeking, caring and play. Some examples include foraging, play, positive social interactions and grooming. Enrichment should aim to increase positive emotions and reduce the time animals experience negative emotions such as fear and panic (Morris et al, 2014). When applied correctly, environmental enrichment promotes optimal animal welfare.<br />
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Stay tuned for my next few blog posts which will focus on the most effective ways you can provide environmental enrichment for your <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com.au/2017/09/environmental-enrichment-ideas-for-your.html" target="_blank">dog</a>, <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com.au/2017/09/environmental-enrichment-ideas-for-your_27.html" target="_blank">cat</a> and companion parrot!</div>
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References</h4>
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Carlstead, K. and D. Shepherdson. "Alleviating stress in zoo animals with environmental enrichment." <i>The biology of animal stress: Basic principles and implications for animal welfare </i>(2000): 337-354.</div>
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Morris, C. L., T. Grandin and N. A. Irlbeck. "Companion Animals Symposium: Environmental Enrichment for companion, exotic and laboratory animals". <i>Journal of Animal Science 89.12 </i>(2011): 4227-4238.</div>
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Overall, K. and D. Dyer. "Enrichment strategies for laboratory animals from the viewpoint of clinical veterinary behavioural medicine: Emphasis on cats and dogs." <i>Ilar Journal 46.2</i> (2005): 202-216.</div>
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Van Praag, H., Kemperman, G. and Gage, F. H. "Neural consequences of environmental enrichment." <i>Nature reviews. Neuroscience 1.3 </i>(2000): 191.</div>
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Whelan, F. "Environmental enrichment for pets." <i>Veterinary Nursing Journal 25.3 </i>(2010): 27-28.</div>
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Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-61107126501833213162017-07-12T17:29:00.003-07:002017-07-12T22:51:47.667-07:00Is Your Cat Suffering Whisker Stress?You've probably heard that your cat's whiskers are highly sensitive. Indeed, whiskers provide cats with vital sensory information about their environment. But have you heard the term "whisker stress" and, if not, what is whisker stress and could your cat be experiencing it?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDN9jaGgPTa3Va1Q6bb2l0DPsdfNck_oedzdYiGOTSQHy0j96X6ZlNFNAN2iXXIeCoylFwSILvcyToj2ABs1Vt95dDrFSJVUSYl7KuqHabierGe53W3QGVBWTGdWbgqK1OzNknjzvfXKE/s1600/cat-2300648_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1066" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDN9jaGgPTa3Va1Q6bb2l0DPsdfNck_oedzdYiGOTSQHy0j96X6ZlNFNAN2iXXIeCoylFwSILvcyToj2ABs1Vt95dDrFSJVUSYl7KuqHabierGe53W3QGVBWTGdWbgqK1OzNknjzvfXKE/s320/cat-2300648_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h4>
The role of whiskers:</h4>
Whiskers are modified hairs which are deeply rooted and rich in blood vessels and nerve endings. They are used by mammals to supplement their short-distance vision, providing information on the distance, size, shape and texture of surrounding objects as well as air pressure. Cats typically have between eight and 12 whiskers on each side of their face and additional tufts of whiskers above their eyes and on their chin.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlq7VzqqlrjlnW8gqVpf39-8gtLKZCkmkzkIuQMPECahmXk0k6246R91VxQU7cIBK0AN6O0ziYmPLEJqp38ywqPWyMSIpy293CQAqppe3dFupWgaiO0l03H9ilJM3O17wungFnmnFl2is/s1600/cat-2314325_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlq7VzqqlrjlnW8gqVpf39-8gtLKZCkmkzkIuQMPECahmXk0k6246R91VxQU7cIBK0AN6O0ziYmPLEJqp38ywqPWyMSIpy293CQAqppe3dFupWgaiO0l03H9ilJM3O17wungFnmnFl2is/s320/cat-2314325_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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What is Whisker Stress?</h4>
Whisker stress is caused when a cat's sensitive whiskers continually touch the sides of it's food bowl while eating. Many cats are affected by whisker stress on a daily basis, especially those fed from a deep food bowl. This causes the whiskers to hit the sides of the bowl every time the cat eats a mouthful of food (see image below).<br />
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Whiskers contain proprioceptors; sensory receptors which detect the slightest change in pressure. When whiskers constantly make contact with the side of the food bowl (or cat flap etc) it can cause significant irritation. The result is a cat that can appear picky or finicky with food - Ever seen a cat flick it's food out of the bowl? The reality, however, is that eating from the deep bowl is very uncomfortable.<br />
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Wild living felines have choice in terms of where they consume their food (e.g. on the ground, high up in a tree, in hiding etc). Most pet cats are fed from their food bowl, so they cannot eat in a way that is most comfortable for them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSik1HZTB1FowdpfgnAnS6H9o0qbG9cQ9plZ11Uu4aoUZCDQUSzy44d_tWk-WUI_5VDUFtfkxTFnn-Afr_fsNP_1nL497bN6juCBV-8cXlH8YLqIl5YXAXLM5WbJRnzaV_78QA-NGYAWs/s1600/cat-1136365_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSik1HZTB1FowdpfgnAnS6H9o0qbG9cQ9plZ11Uu4aoUZCDQUSzy44d_tWk-WUI_5VDUFtfkxTFnn-Afr_fsNP_1nL497bN6juCBV-8cXlH8YLqIl5YXAXLM5WbJRnzaV_78QA-NGYAWs/s320/cat-1136365_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice how this cat's whiskers hit the sides of the bowl while its eating</td></tr>
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How to prevent whisker stress:</h4>
There are a number of things you can do to help prevent your cat experiencing whisker stress.<br />
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<ul>
<li>Choose a wide food dish with shallow walls or, even better, ditch the food bowl and provide meals in a food dispensing puzzle toy or activity feeder. No wild living feline (or other animal) gets high quality food for free, served up in a bowl, without having to work for it. Making cats work for their food is an excellent form of environmental enrichment and provides additional physical activity and opportunities for problem solving which is especially important for indoor-only cats. Research supports this idea, showing that <a href="http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0003347296903206" target="_blank">animals prefer to work for their food</a>; a phenomenon known as "contra-freeloading".</li>
<li>Consider providing fresh water via a cat fountain instead of a bowl or provide a wide and shallow water bowl. </li>
<li>Ensure any cat flaps or access holes are wide enough to avoid touching your cat's whiskers as some cats may avoid using them if they cause irritation to their whiskers.</li>
<li>Avoid touching or playing with your cat's whiskers.</li>
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Finally, NEVER cut or trim your cat's whiskers. Cutting the whiskers can cause them to become disorientated, scared and stressed. </div>
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We'd love to hear about any changes you notice in your cat's behaviour after implementing some of these ideas!</div>
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Dr Kate xo<br />
<br />Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-11815913724704165232017-06-14T19:52:00.001-07:002017-08-02T16:25:03.614-07:00Not All Treats Are Equal When Training Your PetAccording to the principles of Operant Conditioning, animals (including us!) change their behaviour depending on its consequences. Behaviours that result in a desired consequence are repeated or strengthened whereas behaviours resulting in an unpleasant consequence, or none at all, are weakened or avoided. This means that animals do what works for them; what they find most rewarding (reinforcing) in any given situation throughout their lives. <i>You can learn more about Operant Conditioning <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operant_conditioning" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</i><br />
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There are a number of factors that influence exactly what an animal finds rewarding or <i>reinforcing</i>. These include it's species, breed/breed type, temperament, personality, past experiences, likes and dislikes, health status, age, the immediate environment, time of day etc.<br />
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Why use treats when training you pet?</h4>
Most animal trainers recommend food as the best reward for desired behaviours. Food is classified as a "primary reinforcer" or biological need. Primary reinforcers include food, drink and shelter. Food is innately reinforcing and it works exceptionally well in training to teach dogs (and all animals) desired behaviours. But not all food is equal. Just because <i>you</i> think the treats you're using are rewarding to your dog (or other animal), doesn't mean they are the <i>most</i> rewarding or effective treats to use.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodNJY79leggIkTjAVKCCuiGnwJHhW0tbK_ArbQarDFX0UwzsubmpwEip_wvigyVZP8wM92iG6b4DBy29cLrp1fK9jg0l2spYmZbf_X6TfWRPk_gkwN1jylAFu3rz8VO0ULCaJ_3FCpZ8/s1600/dog-610069_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1202" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodNJY79leggIkTjAVKCCuiGnwJHhW0tbK_ArbQarDFX0UwzsubmpwEip_wvigyVZP8wM92iG6b4DBy29cLrp1fK9jg0l2spYmZbf_X6TfWRPk_gkwN1jylAFu3rz8VO0ULCaJ_3FCpZ8/s320/dog-610069_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Why treat selection is important</h4>
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When choosing the type of treats to train your dog (or any pet), you should be aiming for <b>high value </b>treats for <i>your</i> particular animal. This is because<i> the higher the value of the food, the more motivated your dog will be and the quicker they will learn. </i>Many dog owners use their dogs regular kibble or dry food in training and, if you have a very food motivated dog, this might work just fine. However, most dogs tend to find their kibble relatively low value, as they eat it every day. In general, foods dogs find highly valuable include cooked chicken, cheese and hotdogs/devon but this varies depending on the dog (see Figure 1 for a general indication of treat value for most dogs).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ZbbRKcpyGXVxe3kyWvW1dEexqAWqK8iIag5OCZ2BmObnjWJdb18sC0B5UVG-UPUj_lV6pe12koja_wRk0bX2aBNcYH61tRJtcHaHaIrSLy9it9YX9E2vD_0621wfYmD8LXw5flWBcmQ/s1600/Fig1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="543" data-original-width="1077" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ZbbRKcpyGXVxe3kyWvW1dEexqAWqK8iIag5OCZ2BmObnjWJdb18sC0B5UVG-UPUj_lV6pe12koja_wRk0bX2aBNcYH61tRJtcHaHaIrSLy9it9YX9E2vD_0621wfYmD8LXw5flWBcmQ/s400/Fig1.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1: Hierarchy of treat value for most dogs</td></tr>
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To find out which treats your dog values most, why not conduct a choice experiment? This involves lining up a few different treat options (e.g. kibble, liver treats, cheese, chicken) and, during several trials, seeing which treats your dog consistently prefers. If your dog shows a clear preference for certain treats, these are the treats you should train with.<br />
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Another indication a particular treat is high value is how quickly your dog consumes it. If your dog scoffs the treats at lightning speed that's a pretty good sign their high value. But if your dog sniffs them a few times, picks one up, drops it and picks it up again before eating it, this indicates the treat is not very high value. Variety is also important. So try to mix it up a bit and avoid using the same treats day in, day out.<br />
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What about other rewards?</h4>
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Although food is the best reward to use in training, it's important to combine it with other things your dog finds rewarding. These other rewards are referred to as "secondary reinforcers" and can include praise, pats, favourite toys, games, going for a walk and the opportunity to play with another dog. Secondary reinforcers are extremely useful for when you don't have food on hand, or you want to phase food out, and you still want to reward desired behaviour.<br />
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Again, it's important to establish if the secondary reinforcers you are using are actually rewarding to your dog. We often assume our dogs enjoy pats, but sometimes they don't. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cGDYI-s-cQ" target="_blank">Here's a video</a> to help you determine if your dog find pats reinforcing. The best indicator of whether your dog finds something rewarding is an increase in the behaviour you're rewarding. If the behaviour is not increasing (or strengthening) then the reward you're using is not reinforcing enough.<br />
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So now you know how important treat selection is in training, why not put it into practice and see what difference it makes. We'd love to hear your experiences!<br />
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Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-37310963875452784972017-06-01T18:27:00.001-07:002017-06-02T18:20:39.383-07:00Piranha Puppies: How to bring an end to the BITE!<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;">
I’ve seen several
clients recently with puppies and young dogs who bite and mouth them REALLY
hard, often causing scratches, bleeding and bruising. Puppies vary in the
intensity and duration of their biting and chewing. Given plenty of appropriate
items to chew on, many will not direct this behaviour towards their human
family. When they do, however, it can vary from mildly annoying to painful and
scary.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYb64E5Z2xCATc1Gxw3Rz2fy9J8oUaQlpupjnMmui0m8RD-_-nQkNbEuTHrcKSjC9OpFcyutdNIa5oD1UqSKmuNk733gTLypseBFcR46RTTd5314w002Cm2vFwW7zr7uDSLsokPt5bmk/s1600/pexels-photo-117486.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYb64E5Z2xCATc1Gxw3Rz2fy9J8oUaQlpupjnMmui0m8RD-_-nQkNbEuTHrcKSjC9OpFcyutdNIa5oD1UqSKmuNk733gTLypseBFcR46RTTd5314w002Cm2vFwW7zr7uDSLsokPt5bmk/s320/pexels-photo-117486.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<h4>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-AU;"><br /></span></b></h4>
<h4>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-AU;">Why do some puppies
bite hard?</span></b></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-AU" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-AU;">Biting and
mouthing is normal puppy behaviour. Puppies explore the world with their
muzzles (smelling, tasting, chewing) and biting and chewing on things,
including our limbs and clothing, helps puppies learn about the world around
them. It also helps to relieve pain associated with teething. This means that
biting and chewing is a self-rewarding behaviour and will continue while it
provides desired consequences (pain relief, entertainment etc.).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-AU" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-AU;">When
puppies are with their mother and <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">litter
mates they learn many important social behaviours, one of these is called “bite-inhibition”. Bite inhibition is a dog's ability to control the pressure of its mouth and teeth, to cause little or no damage to the recipient of the bite. </span></span><br />
<br />
During normal play and rough housing young puppies inevitably bite each other and their
mother. The high-pitched yelps given off by the receiver of the bite signal to
the offender that the bite was too hard and it hurt. The consequence often
being the play session is over.<br />
<br />
With repeated interactions puppies learn
quickly to modulate their bites to avoid conflict. Sometimes, puppies are separated from their mother and litter mates too early, missing this important learning opportunity, and may be prone to bite harder than normal.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;">
<span lang="EN-AU" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-AU;">The good news is that given time, most puppies
will eventually grow out of the biting stage. That said, there are steps you
can take to avoid being bitten and to teach your puppy to bite their toys
instead…</span><br />
<span lang="EN-AU" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-AU;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC0yX3Q__ocq3jxQDHG1Gt3XmdYtcXZQOKfCKzpWkJSKpFym6-j8TpaSWqBOUjXFwJ9MZLWpIazhg_qvOR1cFznREEGFXY8fsDx2RaiQ_8lvgxVWVvr9XRKc7eLmbsdBqvPpOO00nYUok/s1600/puppy-1502565_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC0yX3Q__ocq3jxQDHG1Gt3XmdYtcXZQOKfCKzpWkJSKpFym6-j8TpaSWqBOUjXFwJ9MZLWpIazhg_qvOR1cFznREEGFXY8fsDx2RaiQ_8lvgxVWVvr9XRKc7eLmbsdBqvPpOO00nYUok/s320/puppy-1502565_1920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<h4>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-AU;"><br /></span></b></h4>
<h4>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-AU;">How to stop the bite:</span></b></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;">
<span lang="EN-AU" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-AU;">You can reduce the likelihood of being bitten
by your puppy by following these tips:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;">
</div>
<ul>
<li><span lang="EN-AU" style="text-indent: -18pt;">Encourage
your puppy to bite and chew on appropriate items such as chew toys, chew treats
and feeding toys. Reward your puppy with attention, praise and high value
treats for chewing on these toys. You can also put treats inside toys or smear
them with peanut butter to make them extra tempting.</span></li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">If
your puppy’s teeth contact your skin immediately give out a high pitched yelp
sound (to make the unwanted behaviour) and remove your attention from your
puppy (completely ignore them) for a few moments. As soon as your puppy stops
biting immediately reward that behaviour with your attention and praise. If
your puppy continues to bite you remove yourself from the room for several
minutes. Repeat as necessary.</span></li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">As
you’re moving around the home or backyard, flapping clothing can tempt some
puppies to latch on. Avoid pulling away and creating a fun game of tug. Rather,
try not to make a big fuss. Stand still, be boring and ignore your puppy until
they stop or throw a ball or toy away from you for your puppy to chase,
allowing yourself safe passage.</span></li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">Do
not allow your puppy to chew or mouth your hands (or feet) in play. Also avoid
using your hands to rough house your puppy. Use toys instead. You want to teach
your puppy to be gentle with your hands and feet and to bite and chew their
toys instead.</span></li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">Have
a variety of different sizes and textured toys available for your puppy to play
with. Rubber toys (e.g. <a href="https://www.kongcompany.com/en-au/" target="_blank">Kongs</a>), rope toys, squeaky toys, balls and treat
puzzles are popular choices. Tug toys such as the <a href="https://aus.tethertug.com/?gclid=Cj0KEQjw9r7JBRCj37PlltTskaMBEiQAKTzTfNLnCYnxE8IRzszR0bheGmBlO_k78Xew_EF91XxUihkaAmPV8P8HAQ" target="_blank">Tether Tug</a> or <a href="https://aussiedog.com.au/product/home-alone-medium/" target="_blank">Home Alone</a> are
great choices for dogs that love tug games, once they’re a little older. It’s
also important to rotate toys and introduce new ones every so often to help
prevent boredom.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-outline-level: 1;">
With a little time, patience and
consistency, your puppy will learn that chewing on their toys is WAY better (because
it results in lots of additional reinforcement) than chewing on you (which
results in being ignored).<br />
<br />
Now go have fun with your puppy!<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-66560295616131601232017-02-12T22:15:00.002-08:002022-08-22T21:46:25.760-07:00How To Stop Your Dog Jumping Up<span style="font-family: arial;"><span>Jumping up on people is one of the most common
issues I help dog owners to address. It tends to occur most when visitors
arrive and when family members return home from an absence. These are exciting
events for dogs, especially those who may have been home alone all day. </span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: center;">Although many small dog owners tolerate their dog
jumping up on them, a large dog is a different story. In their exuberance,
heavy dogs with big paws and claws (and big teeth!) can cause bruising and
damage to clothing. Most visitors to the home don't appreciate being jumped and
slobbered on either, even if they assure you it's ok.</span><br />
</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOci3eVbmWJzM6eUWB1myRtC7S4c5U08K-_oMC2Vdve5JQn9ii99OEM6w8yPkDA6NEH7tq2ETNQmiCsjnxKy5bobjTVM0WF8hx1cHPssZamsx1gUNV77PtCQgaZs0CE5P1XimmNMMDrPE/s1600/4491135324_9b3101fc84_z.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOci3eVbmWJzM6eUWB1myRtC7S4c5U08K-_oMC2Vdve5JQn9ii99OEM6w8yPkDA6NEH7tq2ETNQmiCsjnxKy5bobjTVM0WF8hx1cHPssZamsx1gUNV77PtCQgaZs0CE5P1XimmNMMDrPE/s320/4491135324_9b3101fc84_z.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: xx-small;">Image credit:<span> </span><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mr_t_in_dc/"><span style="color: #16b1f0; text-decoration: none;">Mr.TinDC</span></a><span> via </span><a href="https://goo.gl/tEcmnx"><span style="color: #16b1f0; text-decoration: none;">Flickr</span></a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-family: arial;">Why do dogs jump up?<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;">So, why do dogs jump up on people? The short answer
is; because the behaviour has been reinforced (rewarded) in the past. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;">All behaviour is driven by consequences. Animals
repeat behaviours that have a desired consequence. Conversely, they tend to
avoid repeating behaviours that have an unpleasant consequence. Animals
continually change their behaviour to do what's most reinforcing for them,
based on their unique likes and dislikes, wants and needs, in any given situation.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;">When it comes to jumping up most people respond to
the behaviour in (variations of) one of three ways: 1) They pat and greet the
dog, 2) People who are scared of dogs might squeal or yell and put their hands
in the air moving erratically or 3) They scold the dog telling it to stop/get
down and/or push it away. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;">Not all people will respond the same way to any one
dog that jumps up and therefore a dog is likely to get a mix of responses to
the behaviour. For many dogs, being told off or pushed away still reinforces
the behaviour because it's still attention, even though it's intended as a
punishment. Furthermore, if the consequence of
jumping up is inconsistent; sometimes rewarded, sometimes punished, sometimes
resulting in an exciting reaction this is known as <a href="http://www.intropsych.com/ch05_conditioning/intermittent_reinforcement.html"><span style="color: #420178;">intermittent reinforcement</span></a> which will result
in the jumping up behaviour continuing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="font-family: arial;">How to stop your dog jumping up<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span>To stop your dog from jumping up when you or your
guests enter your home you must remove all reinforcement for the behaviour
(i.e. attention, reaction). More importantly, you need to teach your dog what
you want them to do instead (e.g. sit calmly or have four paws on the floor) by
consistently reinforcing the desired behaviour.</span><br />
</span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn4pEXeXrW_7A43iLaDjBQOTZ-3O22ZJgTpe4m0uPCMcZ5gQmfD_MzOaqvhhh9NNZ6FYhn4ka3dfxo2FUcoT6dvuqvDQHOlJXcSp8rS0pXXmin2ILr2WW5b2_syCDPjo-xC4haxn52DEM/s1600/6884905089_76f7a7ba58_b.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn4pEXeXrW_7A43iLaDjBQOTZ-3O22ZJgTpe4m0uPCMcZ5gQmfD_MzOaqvhhh9NNZ6FYhn4ka3dfxo2FUcoT6dvuqvDQHOlJXcSp8rS0pXXmin2ILr2WW5b2_syCDPjo-xC4haxn52DEM/s320/6884905089_76f7a7ba58_b.jpg" width="213" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: xx-small;">Image credit: <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/pmarkham/6884905089" target="_blank">Pete Markham</a> via <a href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/" target="_blank">Flickr</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span>Have some of your dogs favourite treats on hand
when you arrive home or when guests come over. It's best to practice this exercise with your dog several times yourself, so he understands what's expected, before it's attempted with visitors. </span><br />
<span><br /></span>
<span>When you come through the door
immediately ask your dog to sit and show him you have treats (this will make
him more likely to comply). As soon as he sits, reward the behaviour with a
treat and praise. Take a few steps and ask for another sit or reward your dog
if he hasn't jumped up. As soon as he does jump up on you turn your back and completely
ignore him. Don't tell him off, don't even look at him. Pretend as though he's
not even there. As soon as he stops jumping turn to him and reward four paws on
the floor or ask him to sit and reward the sit. Repeat as necessary. </span><br />
<span><br /></span>
<span>It's
critical that the consequences for your dog's jumping up and sitting are
immediate - As soon as he jumps up he's ignored (unpleasant consequence). As soon as he sits, he gets a
treat, pat and praise (pleasurable consequence). With consistency and repetition your dog will change his
behaviour to do what works (sit calmly when you or guests enter the house)
because that behaviour results in the things your dog desires (treats, praise,
pats) whereas jumping up results in being ignored.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span>Consistency is key and this means having ALL
people who come to your house respond in the same way. If this doesn't happen,
the risk is that jumping will be intermittently reinforced, and the behaviour will persist. If you're having guests over and you can't do the training it's
best to put your dog in another area of the house to ensure that jumping up
isn't accidentally reinforced.</span><br />
<br />
</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig5XZnvcTMaF7JroSniCWATQ6tb4Vbbnn9Tfhp00MTooSo8rcSu049xojeH2vvytfyhD1CXf6tBqFpSizLQ8NznQYzIojy6jj4QArj1rvyRfoJLRSCyWieF_PVLMo779l1JW-Jm8KycR0/s1600/night-ball-tennis-eyes-75346.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig5XZnvcTMaF7JroSniCWATQ6tb4Vbbnn9Tfhp00MTooSo8rcSu049xojeH2vvytfyhD1CXf6tBqFpSizLQ8NznQYzIojy6jj4QArj1rvyRfoJLRSCyWieF_PVLMo779l1JW-Jm8KycR0/s320/night-ball-tennis-eyes-75346.jpeg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span>Why not go a step further and teach your dog to go to their bed (or a
mat), and stay there until released, when you come home, visitors arrive or
when the doorbell rings? For step-by-step instructions on how to train this
behaviour, read </span><a href="http://www.clickertraining.com/node/3308"><span style="color: #420178;">this article</span></a><span>.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Don't forget to follow Dr Kate on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PetsBehavingBadlyDrKate/" target="_blank">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/petbehaviourist/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-30479634300434121762017-01-11T20:16:00.001-08:002022-08-22T21:45:00.403-07:00A Canine Conundrum: To Hug or Not to Hug?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div><span style="font-family: arial;">
I remember receiving an email a while back which made me feel nauseous. In it, a concerned dog owner explained
how his dog isn’t great with children because when they put their arms around
the dog’s neck and hug it, or get up close to the dog’s face, the dog responds
by snapping or growling.<br />
<br />
The email went on to explain that the dog has never
bitten or made contact but that the behaviour is a concern because the family's toddler loves to interact with the dog and other children just want to hug it because
of how cute it looks.<br />
<br />
This wasn't the first email I’ve received about dogs that behave aggressively when people
(especially children or strangers) get too close, hug or manhandle a dog and it won’t
be the last. In fact, in my work as an animal behaviourist and consultant, human-directed
aggression is a common issue I’m called in to assist with.<br />
<br />
</span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAqJ7bAewc5WuwFoH4XO34cB7_QqBwrQDw0gSWDIHp48Mo0POZEGoqf5Oku-FohzLkd7EHjcJvm0OH59OlKIvoGfmReXWMIT8za069hf3hME4a0Gp6XZIhtKkvc3K2y1NsdWcSy5WBKhc/s1600/girl-1004751_1920.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAqJ7bAewc5WuwFoH4XO34cB7_QqBwrQDw0gSWDIHp48Mo0POZEGoqf5Oku-FohzLkd7EHjcJvm0OH59OlKIvoGfmReXWMIT8za069hf3hME4a0Gp6XZIhtKkvc3K2y1NsdWcSy5WBKhc/s320/girl-1004751_1920.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Image 1: Do you think this dog is enjoying being hugged? </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<b><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: arial;">What’s wrong with hugging dogs?</span></b></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span lang="EN-AU">So why do
some dogs respond aggressively to being hugged? What’s wrong with hugging dogs?
It’s how we show them we love them so it must be ok, right? The answer may
surprise you…</span><br />
<span lang="EN-AU"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-AU">Research looking into this phenomenon is lacking in the scientific
literature. However, this issue came to light recently when canine behaviour expert
Stanley Coren wrote <a href="https://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/canine-corner/201604/the-data-says-dont-hug-the-dog">an
article for Psychology Today</a> about an informal study he did (not published
in the scientific literature) in which photos of people hugging dogs, freely
available on the internet, were analysed for signs of canine stress or anxiety. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-AU"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-AU">The results of this study indicated that about 82% of the dogs in the photos
showed some sign of discomfort, stress or anxiety. Not surprisingly, this
article caused some controversy, upsetting many dog owners who take pleasure in
hugging their dogs. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span lang="EN-AU">Hugging is
a form of intimacy found in all human societies. <a href="https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/humans-chimpanzees-console-victims-of-aggression/">We
inherited this tendency from our closest relatives, chimpanzees, who also hug
and kiss one another</a>. So it’s not surprising that <a href="http://profdoc.um.ac.ir/paper-abstract-1029601.html">humans use hugs as a
reward for their dogs</a>. The thing is, dogs don’t hug one another and have
not evolved to understand what a human hug means. The closest thing that dogs
might do to each other that resembles a hug is mounting - both a sexual
behaviour and one used to communicate dominance<sup>1</sup> - or during an
argument (see image #2 below). So what kind of message are we sending our dogs
when we hug them?! The answer lies in their body language…</span><br />
<span lang="EN-AU"><br /></span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7N89co2XJhsA2GIlWiEX3R6KNXQDwRbBVtU7m3qxgvps2yvalMyMPbxYjGAEOCb24MzD8J-GJV8nUw_VzSkw8nGMwCbn_pNOcfCrpw0FvecnjQgZsZO5acp3wgBViNNuhyRfJhIx877E/s1600/1024px-Dogs_roughhousing_by_David_Shankbone.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7N89co2XJhsA2GIlWiEX3R6KNXQDwRbBVtU7m3qxgvps2yvalMyMPbxYjGAEOCb24MzD8J-GJV8nUw_VzSkw8nGMwCbn_pNOcfCrpw0FvecnjQgZsZO5acp3wgBViNNuhyRfJhIx877E/s320/1024px-Dogs_roughhousing_by_David_Shankbone.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Image 2: These dogs may look like they're hugging but they're actually fighting.<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Credit: David Shankbone CC BY-SA 2.5-2.0-1.0 via Wikimedia Commons</span><br />
</span><div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: arial;">How can I tell if my dog enjoys being hugged?</span></h4>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span lang="EN-AU">I used </span><span style="text-align: center;">to hug my dogs too, especially my Boxer, Archie who sadly passed away in 2015. I could tell he didn’t enjoy it as much as I did. Rather, he tolerated it. I did it because I enjoyed it and it felt good but rarely did I stop and think, is he really ok with being hugged, until I knew better. Like many dog owners, I assumed he understood the sentiments behind the hug. Our late Labrador Joe was never into hugs and never sought them out but our n<a href="https://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com/2018/11/adopting-lenny-year-in-life-of-rescued.html" target="_blank">ewest dog Lenny, who we adopted in 2017</a>, is absolutely MAD for hugs. He seeks them out several times per day and during most of our interactions with him. I should clarify that Lenny enjoys hugs from me and my husband but sometimes shows mild stress signals (licking his lips and whale eye) if either of my two young children (3 and 4 years old) sneak in a hug. </span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: center;">Something else to consider is that not all hugs are equal and different styles of hugs may be tolerated, or even enjoyed, more than others. For example, a bear hug with both arms tightly held around a dog’s neck, shoulders or body (see images 3 & 4) is more likely to cause stress because it momentarily immobilises the dog. In contrast, a familiar arm over a dog that’s comfortably resting combined with gentle patting or stroking or cradling a puppy while it's sleeping (see image 5) </span><span style="text-align: center;">are likely to be pleasurable and enjoyable for both parties. Archie our Boxer preferred this style of hug to a bear hug and once this became blindingly obvious to me, I changed the way I hugged him. </span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuynsr-EBhEzvlfSEiZlrxYJcoL3wycLSj6MEWcaeKQyBTtUetS3Tx3mO77-j3I52nXtS5pPPM42hgDX_a-ymEwzoeHiv32WDRrU8OdBpX_CR9gi3rSEN4EufT8amX7RIb0S8HNy69oH8/s1600/dog-426097_1920.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuynsr-EBhEzvlfSEiZlrxYJcoL3wycLSj6MEWcaeKQyBTtUetS3Tx3mO77-j3I52nXtS5pPPM42hgDX_a-ymEwzoeHiv32WDRrU8OdBpX_CR9gi3rSEN4EufT8amX7RIb0S8HNy69oH8/s320/dog-426097_1920.jpg" width="212" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Image 3: This dog may appear to be enjoying the hug and "kissing" it's owner. but looks can be deceiving - licking the owners face is an appeasement behaviour.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br />
</span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2s7-o_IDBy_k_zbMCfD9hiaGuQK0cfm_9v3EaUeAadJd9d5AJH5CbSPjN-960sfttWiBoll7XlF0Olop9fKPa3dtM8w61jvEQ0aPzf54cXzQXVo7sdxU2bYPi68Uv6qgal-YjTDUoCQ/s1600/dog-426100_1920.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2s7-o_IDBy_k_zbMCfD9hiaGuQK0cfm_9v3EaUeAadJd9d5AJH5CbSPjN-960sfttWiBoll7XlF0Olop9fKPa3dtM8w61jvEQ0aPzf54cXzQXVo7sdxU2bYPi68Uv6qgal-YjTDUoCQ/s320/dog-426100_1920.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Image 4: A different style of hug but still this dog is uncomfortable. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7GaZsTqc_3omexjTn1kZAmuVY2YjqygOk1kOmwC3wkMotb_V_dgQCeL9ulC3dp9xlgKcFhb0m59Yf31tbH16Uly3uRbqSwoBLduwcR7tdvTHo77Lri_NW5ZEBDRgxVR_W9YErUwUxsmo/s1600/pexels-photo-129634.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7GaZsTqc_3omexjTn1kZAmuVY2YjqygOk1kOmwC3wkMotb_V_dgQCeL9ulC3dp9xlgKcFhb0m59Yf31tbH16Uly3uRbqSwoBLduwcR7tdvTHo77Lri_NW5ZEBDRgxVR_W9YErUwUxsmo/s320/pexels-photo-129634.jpeg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Image 5: This puppy is calm and relaxed being held and stroked.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span lang="EN-AU">You can
tell if your dog enjoys hugs and what kind of hug it prefers by observing it’s
body language. Signs of stress that indicate hugs may not be your dogs thing
include: lip licking, whale eye (whites of the eyes clearly visible), ears held
back or down, turning away, yawning, avoiding eye contact, panting, lifting a
paw and avoidance. </span>More overt body
language which indicates you should immediately stop hugging your dog include
baring teeth, growling, snapping, nipping and biting.<br />
<br />
Signs of a dog that is relaxed and potentially enjoying being hugged can include a loose body, soft/squinty/closed eyes, a relaxed mouth and facial expression, lying down, head resting on you, ears in a neutral position and steady breathing (see image 5 again). For more information on reading canine body language, including signs of stress/anxiety or relaxation, see <a href="https://positively.com/dog-training/understanding-dogs/canine-body-language/" target="_blank">this article</a>.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span lang="EN-AU">I'm not saying you should never hug your dog again. The take
home message here is not to assume all dogs like hugs because it's quite likely the opposite is true. Rather, I suggest erring on the side of caution, especially if
you have a dog with an unknown history, young children or a dog that is fearful
or anxious. Don’t hug dogs you don’t know. You have no idea of their
temperament, personality or past experiences. Even if it’s the cutest damn dog you’ve
ever seen. You wouldn’t hug a complete stranger and, even if you did,
you would stop if they told you too. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-AU"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-AU">Teach children not to hug (or even
approach) dogs they don’t know. Teach them that dogs prefer a gentle scratch under the
chin or on their chest, shoulder or back - and only if they are relaxed and approach calmly of
their own accord to interact. Just as we wouldn’t expect a child to hug or kiss a complete stranger it’s unfair to expect our dogs to tolerate the same thing
from people or children they don't know. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-AU"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-AU">Dogs probably tolerate hugs from people they have a strong
attachment bond, and trusting relationship with, but that doesn’t mean we
should expect them to tolerate a hug from anyone, let alone a complete
stranger. You can learn more about how to "ask" your dog if they'd like a pat or a hug by watching this excellent <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cGDYI-s-cQ" target="_blank">YouTube video</a>.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-AU"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-AU">Dr Kate x</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;">Don't forget to follow Dr Kate on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PetsBehavingBadlyDrKate/" target="_blank">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/petbehaviourist/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: arial;">References:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Overall,
K. L. (1997). <i>Clinical behavioral medicine for small animals</i>. Mosby-Year
Book, Inc..</span><span lang="EN-AU"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-86465522251324398532016-12-20T16:08:00.000-08:002018-12-11T14:24:22.530-08:00Holiday Hazards! How To Keep Pets Safe This Christmas<span style="font-family: inherit;">Christmas is such an exciting time, not just for us but also for our pets. We tend to be home on holidays, there are more people coming and going and the kids are home from school. But with all the fuss and excitement comes some hidden dangers for our pets. Here are my tips for keeping your pets safe this Christmas...</span><br />
<br />
<h4>
Christmas trees and decorations:</h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Christmas trees, both real and artificial, can be irresistible to curious cats and playful puppies. All that bright and shimmery tinsel, flashing lights and hanging decorations can make exciting new toys to play with. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">As lovely as they are to look at, tree decorations can be hazardous. Baubles can break and cut paws if they're stood on and decorations can cause choking or gastrointestinal obstruction if eaten. Christmas tree lights pose an electric shock risk when they're turned on with puppies, kittens and rabbits most likely to chew on them. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Cats and kittens may also be tempted to climb the tree as it provides a high vantage point and this could easily cause the tree to topple over. The presents underneath the tree, especially edibles (e.g. nuts and chocolate), can also be problematic.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkim-LuYfo4oERr-IaDG4gRON0127BmCf9ngsGG3LR_w7y5kMDSSMLUJchWAQS1FID8KBuImT8Fv4lmbR_RreWucr8kmns6ailjaXjvgG0eUx9avBL9j3gyTuIcsKA9iV95DbO9urPy3I/s1600/6566587181_b1a41e4222_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkim-LuYfo4oERr-IaDG4gRON0127BmCf9ngsGG3LR_w7y5kMDSSMLUJchWAQS1FID8KBuImT8Fv4lmbR_RreWucr8kmns6ailjaXjvgG0eUx9avBL9j3gyTuIcsKA9iV95DbO9urPy3I/s320/6566587181_b1a41e4222_b.jpg" width="284" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Image: Steve Jurvetson on Flickr</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">If your pets are obsessed with your tree and the decorations you can try barricading it with a playpen or placing the tree in a room your pets can't access. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">If you have some time, you can teach your pets that being on their beds or just leaving the tree alone is very rewarding. DO this by reinforcing (rewarding) that behaviour with high value treats, praise and favourite toys. Done frequently and consistently this will help reduce the likelihood your pets will focus on the tree. That said, when you're not home, the tree may be the most interesting thing for your pets to play with, so it's best to ensure they can't access it when you're out!</span><br />
<br />
<h4>
Festive foods:</h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;">We all like to over indulge at Christmas time but did you know some of the festive foods we consume can be downright dangerous for our pets? The </span><a href="https://www.canstar.com.au/pet-insurance/eight-things-not-to-feed-your-dog-this-christmas/" style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;" target="_blank">Australian Veterinary Association (AVA)</a><span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;"> warns not to allow pets to eat these popular festive foods:</span><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Chocolate</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Nutmeg</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Grapes and raisins (including Christmas pudding and mince tarts)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Avocado</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Macadamia nuts</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Onion and garlic</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Turkey skin, pork crackling, sausages and other fatty meats</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Alcohol</span></li>
</ol>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">If consumed, even in small quantities, these foods can cause illness and be potentially toxic. If you suspect your dog has been poisoned, call your vet immediately for advice.</span><br />
<h4>
<div style="font-weight: normal;">
<br /></div>
</h4>
<h4>
Fireworks:</h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Celebratory fireworks come hand in hand with Christmas and New Years Eve. As much as we love the raucous cracking explosions of colour across the night sky, fireworks cause many of our pets to run for cover, literally. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Fear of loud noises is completely normal and is a survival mechanisms in animals. However, when the fear becomes chronic it's called a phobia. Dogs, particularly, can suffer from a phobia of fireworks causing a range of symptoms include pacing, panting, barking, whining, house soiling, attempting to escape the home or backyard (particularly when home alone). Some dogs become so terrified they cause damage to themselves and the home in their attempts to escape the noisy light show.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzm4cooSJOIBXqNOyhuo8pDU7L6qVFGbM0U0-fspslob4M0zB1qIMaDCil8UPtybYDFq-Fwp4V1LSF6nqQLJP9o2ah8cck6d1nplVa1tojFyeoxmPWEg8Q9lcDUsBp1135MiW3sbspkA/s1600/fireworks-728413_1280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzm4cooSJOIBXqNOyhuo8pDU7L6qVFGbM0U0-fspslob4M0zB1qIMaDCil8UPtybYDFq-Fwp4V1LSF6nqQLJP9o2ah8cck6d1nplVa1tojFyeoxmPWEg8Q9lcDUsBp1135MiW3sbspkA/s320/fireworks-728413_1280.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">If your dog is scared of fireworks it's best not to leave them home alone, especially if you have a fireworks display scheduled for your local area. Bringing your dog inside, drawing the curtains and having the TV on with the volume high can help drown out the sound. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Distractions such as a puzzle toy filled with high value treats given to your dog when fireworks start can help take your dog's mind off the scary event and help create a positive association with them. In extreme cases, fast action anti-anxiety medications may be required to help your dog cope. This should be discussed with your veterinarian.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Ensure your pet's microchip and ID tag details are up to date in case they do manage to escape your property. This will make it much easier for people to reunite you with your lost pet. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Professional help is available if your dog is fearful or phobic of fireworks (and thunderstorms, as they often occur at the same time of year) and should be sought. Look for a well qualified and reputable dog trainer (who specialises in treating fears and phobias), a qualified animal behaviourist or a veterinary behaviourist.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">By keeping these potential dangers in mind you and your pet are sure to stay safe and enjoy the silly season together. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!</span><br />
<br />Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-84893444989925111082016-12-01T18:47:00.002-08:002022-08-22T21:06:27.355-07:00Lead Reactivity Part 2: How to avoid or resolve it<span style="font-family: arial;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">As discussed in <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com.au/2016/11/lead-reactivity-part-1-how-it-develops.html" target="_blank">Part 1</a>, lead reactivity can be a
serious problem that should not be ignored, especially if it's developed into
its more aggressive form. The good news is the behaviour can be avoided
or, if it’s already a problem, successfully modified.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span>
<br />
</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLkpHw5PAJwf3s6i0kSAA-gHon7uJYK0wiJJzKYfwv_HBKG6LAGXKUL01K5lkfkgLfoPCWEnuDhwv3JZoelVzowGNcAgLiOvGYBecpyost03eP91f58xgmTUv3k2nzv3AWdns_13OKxwY/s1600/dog-329280_1280+%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLkpHw5PAJwf3s6i0kSAA-gHon7uJYK0wiJJzKYfwv_HBKG6LAGXKUL01K5lkfkgLfoPCWEnuDhwv3JZoelVzowGNcAgLiOvGYBecpyost03eP91f58xgmTUv3k2nzv3AWdns_13OKxwY/s320/dog-329280_1280+%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<h4>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-family: arial;">Avoiding Lead Reactivity</span></h4>
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">There's</span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> a lot you can do to help avoid your puppy
or adult dog from developing lead reactivity. Remember, most lead reactivity
and aggression, whether towards people, other dogs, animals or inanimate
objects, develops due to past unpleasant or scary experiences. Try to avoid
such experiences by reading and responding appropriately to your dogs behaviour
and body language. This is easier said than done, as research suggests <a href="http://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2013/01/does-experience-help-people-recognize.html" target="_blank">people are not proficient at correctly interpreting dog behaviour and emotions</a>. <i>You can read more about
how to accurately interpret canine body language </i></span><i><a href="http://www.petprofessionalguild.com/DogBodylanguage">here</a>, <a href="https://betterpet.com/dog-body-language/"><span>here</span></a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> and </span><a href="https://positively.com/dog-training/understanding-dogs/canine-body-language/">here</a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">
and see a quick video demonstration </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bstvG_SUzMo">here</a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> and a more detailed
one </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bg_gGguwzg">here</a></i><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><i>.</i> If you
notice your dog is uncomfortable in a situation, move them away until they relax
again. Remember when your dog is on lead, and feels unsafe or threatened for
any reason, their escape option (flight response) is not available and they’re
much more likely to use aggression (fight response) in an effort to make the
scary thing go away. It’s up to us to ensure we can accurately read our dogs
(and others) to avoid placing them in situations in which they resort to
reactivity and aggression.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">In addition, work on making outings on the lead extra
positive. Most dogs already love going for a walk because of the novel sights
and smells and the opportunity to explore. However you can boost and help maintain
the positive association with things your dog encounters during walks (e.g.
cars, bikes, other dogs, strangers, kids etc) by pairing them with things your
dog values (e.g. high value treats, pats, praise, favourite toys, games etc). By
doing this extra work, you can help negate any mildly negative experiences your
dog may have. Also work on rewarding your dog for calm and compliant behaviour
while on lead. This is also helpful for dogs that become overly excited and frustrated when on lead. </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">So many dog owners underestimate the importance of teaching their puppy how to walk nicely on the lead – a foundation behaviour which will
provide the building blocks of a great relationship. <i>Learn more about lead
training your puppy and adult dog </i></span><i><a href="https://positively.com/dog-behavior/basic-cues/loose-leash-walking/">here</a><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">
and </span><a href="https://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/walk-on-loose-leash-part-1-choose-the-right-walking-pace-and-make-it-clear/">here</a></i><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><i>.</i>
This might be stating the obvious but dogs don’t come automatically programmed
to walk nicely on the lead and be model canine citizens. They need to be taught
how and, as their guardians, it is our responsibility to dedicate the time and
patients to teach them.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span>
<br />
</span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOhE7YPdrLmB7kMYZv60fQ2y_jnaj05THJMvB8Vgtd5rwsCEQ-mizwWfZiscbDo-3ObsOcrYTD5CGY2eS0iSi3lXs_ePoW_PN4oiME2HxUTts_m57n4_oMSmLRVvPdWTqJ-210ai8VgJk/s1600/111757837_0ddce396af_z.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOhE7YPdrLmB7kMYZv60fQ2y_jnaj05THJMvB8Vgtd5rwsCEQ-mizwWfZiscbDo-3ObsOcrYTD5CGY2eS0iSi3lXs_ePoW_PN4oiME2HxUTts_m57n4_oMSmLRVvPdWTqJ-210ai8VgJk/s320/111757837_0ddce396af_z.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">A happy and relaxed dog<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">(Image: Alex Pearson on Flickr)</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"></span><br />
</span><h4>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-family: arial;">Resolving Lead Reactivity</span></h4>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-family: arial;">If your dog is already lead reactive or aggressive
you firstly need to identify the trigger or triggers for the behaviour (e.g.
other dogs, strangers, trucks etc) and the critical distance (or threshold) at
which your dog begins to show early signs of fear, stress or anxiety. These are
often subtle (e.g. lip licking, panting, ears held back, hard eyes, paw lift, focused
attention on the trigger etc) and preclude the more overt signs of reactivity
and aggression (e.g. barking, growling, pulling on the lead, pilo-erection). Next
you need to work on changing your dog’s emotional response to the trigger (e.g.
seeing another dog) from a negative association due to fear to a positive
association while under threshold. Sounds easy enough but what does this involve? </span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">The most common approach is a combination of desensitisation (gradual exposure
to the stimulus under threshold - with enough distance between it and your dog
so as your dog remains relatively relaxed and engaged in the training) and Classic
Counter-Conditioning (pairing the presence of the stimulus with something
pleasurable such as favourite treats). For example, your dog sees another dog
and immediately receives a favourite treat. After several short sessions pairing the just the presence of another dog with high value treats you want to
switch to Operant Conditioning in which your dog learns to become more comfortable
with the approach of another dog and looks to you for reinforcement. This is when you can ask for and reinforce, a known behaviour such as 'sit' or 'look'. This positive reinforcement training helps
to activate the reward pathway in the brain releasing Dopamine, a
neurotransmitter responsible for producing a natural “high” (but more on behavioural
neuroscience</span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> in a future post!). With consistency and repetition, your dog
learns that the previously scary stimulus now predicts good things and no
longer poses danger. The result, over time, should be a marked reduction in
reactive and aggressive behaviour.</span></span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-family: arial;">There are numerous protocols available, based on these principles, that have been developed by experts to assist you to work on resolving your dog's lead reactivity. Choose one that’s feasible and realistic for you. Here’s a
few I recommend:</span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://grishastewart.com/bat-overview/" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Grisha Stewart’s Behaviour
Adjustment Training (BAT)</a></li>
<li><a href="https://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/reactive-dog-foundation-exercises-for-your-leash-reactive-dog/" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Dr
Sophia Yin’s Foundation Exercises for Lead Reactive Dogs</a></li>
<li><a href="https://positively.com/victorias-blog/choice-training-working-with-a-leash-reactive-dog/" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Victoria
Stilwell’s Teaching a Leash Reactive Dog to Make the Right Choices</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2UuSyKC3jAiWpBynRLxaQBGOd2xvRDHhdGeB4mNGzXDf87og0AphVNcItaWMbmoKDQJLyQXqtR1ZDZxe9tGYO-pp0mts6N58Hk_1ROCAmgT_sJOz4Dregrs2MD804dTJJh-ppm6FnzqM/s1600/7165897312_db8e9c7051_z.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2UuSyKC3jAiWpBynRLxaQBGOd2xvRDHhdGeB4mNGzXDf87og0AphVNcItaWMbmoKDQJLyQXqtR1ZDZxe9tGYO-pp0mts6N58Hk_1ROCAmgT_sJOz4Dregrs2MD804dTJJh-ppm6FnzqM/s320/7165897312_db8e9c7051_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Image: MarkScottAustinTX on Flickr</span><br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: arial;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Things don’t always go to plan in the real world.
You may encounter situations out of your control that elicit a reactive or
aggressive response even after you’ve made some good progress (e.g. another dog
slipping it’s lead and running up to your dog or a kid on a skateboard
seemingly appearing out of nowhere). The key is to pick up where you left off
and keep going. There is no quick fix. Dogs, like us, are continuously learning
based on their experiences. It’s up to us to guide and enhance their experiences
as much as possible to optimise their welfare and wellbeing.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Finally, if you feel you don't have the skills or knowledge to work to resolve your dog's lead reactivity or aggression, or you have tried several things that haven’t worked, then please seek professional help. Doing so is in everyone's best interest: Yours, your dog's and the </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">community's.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Don't forget to follow Dr Kate on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PetsBehavingBadlyDrKate/" target="_blank">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/petbehaviourist/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>!</span></div>
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Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-70568099562195889552016-11-14T20:09:00.001-08:002022-08-22T21:04:43.378-07:00Lead Reactivity Part 1: How it develops and why it’s a liability<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Lead
reactivity and/or aggression is a common complaint I receive from my clients. Unfortunately,
too many dog owners contact me after a significant incident has taken place even though the behaviour
has been present, albeit in a milder form, for a period of time.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">Having
a dog that aggressively barks, lunges or pulls towards other dogs or people can be a
source of stress and embarrassment. This often results in people
being reluctant to walk their dog or continuing the walks but not knowing how
to resolve the issue. Either way, this just perpetuates the problem. We know from neuroscience that "neurons that fire together, wire together" meaning the longer a behaviour persists, the more ingrained
it becomes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWh-MmlbV7bnxGgJltVkhugljDRNwXeTZO2lZH5bvRR6SaLk2Qf3CFoqjKKNrwSmhyphenhyphen-OtOXcOr9proKiQCEHm3tKazoXB-fwGtpLPXL1d76cgbB_P12TjqFpbGFhowdbwxKlkUMMFIjE/s1600/4633311293_4c50036a79_b.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWh-MmlbV7bnxGgJltVkhugljDRNwXeTZO2lZH5bvRR6SaLk2Qf3CFoqjKKNrwSmhyphenhyphen-OtOXcOr9proKiQCEHm3tKazoXB-fwGtpLPXL1d76cgbB_P12TjqFpbGFhowdbwxKlkUMMFIjE/s320/4633311293_4c50036a79_b.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;">(Image: Mr.TinDC on Flickr)</span><br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
</td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><b>Why are some dogs lead reactive/aggressive?</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">T</span><span style="font-family: "arial";">he most common
reason for developing lead reactivity that I see in my clients’ dogs is fear due to past unpleasant or scary
experiences. For example, a dog that is attacked by another dog while on lead
may subsequently develop lead aggression when it encounters other dogs in an attempt to protect itself.
Similarly, a dog that’s been hit by a car may display reactive barking or lunging when
it sees moving cars during a walk. It’s important to understand that a
lack of prior positive socialization experiences can also result in lead
reactivity/aggression. For example, dogs that have not been socialized with a
range of other dogs (of varying breeds and breed types) may be fear aggressive
when approached by other dogs. Similarly, a dog that’s never seen a person on a
bicycle or skateboard may lunge aggressively at a cyclist or skateboarder who
passes close by. This is called the “fight or flight response” and it’s a
survival mechanism.</span><br />
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
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</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
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<!--StartFragment--><!--EndFragment--><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><br /></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">When
a dog (or person or other animal) finds itself in a scary situation it either
runs away or confronts the source of their fear in an attempt to make it go
away. When on lead, the escape option is no longer available so using
aggression in an attempt to create distance between themselves and the threat
is more likely. Here’s an analogy; imagine you are walking down a dark alley at
night and suddenly a dark figure lunges towards you demanding your wallet. What
would you do? You’re either going to attempt to run away and escape the
situation or, if you’re grabbed and can’t escape, you will fight back with
everything you’ve got.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><b>Normal dog behaviour</b></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">Dogs
normally greet one another from the side, in an arc, rather than head on. When
we walk them on lead along pathways we may force them to greet each other in an
unnatural way. When two leashed dogs meet they are restrained and unable
to move away from one another if they feel unsure or threatened. Many owners
keep their dog on a tight lead when meeting other dogs “just in case” however
the tension is felt by the dog and can exacerbate their stress. The dogs may
all of a sudden start barking and lunging at one another (fight response)
because the option to increase the distance between each other was not
available (flight response). But get this; even if the dogs didn’t bark at each other,
it’s wrong to assume that they were fine. Most dog owners are actually quite bad at reading
their dog's body language and often miss subtle signs of fear, stress and
anxiety such as pacing, panting when it’s not hot, lip licking, shaking off,
paw lift and low tail carriage. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3y8vTBKpnFGHKvYiy7bfcMGf5uwrj2yi1DsAgOlK8hogSpn6nUdzrP3dvDgWV_z56Q36kovilLIfLrk8iWM1f1OzAbpha9-x1FRBc_49OOol47HRRnVhKRH8MgxfxN50dv373qUgkvj0/s1600/1024px-2008-06-18_Dogs_meeting.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3y8vTBKpnFGHKvYiy7bfcMGf5uwrj2yi1DsAgOlK8hogSpn6nUdzrP3dvDgWV_z56Q36kovilLIfLrk8iWM1f1OzAbpha9-x1FRBc_49OOol47HRRnVhKRH8MgxfxN50dv373qUgkvj0/s320/1024px-2008-06-18_Dogs_meeting.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">(Image: IIdar Sagdejev<span face=""\22 arial\22 " , "\22 helvetica\22 " , sans-serif"> / CC-BY-SA-3.0)</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">Furthermore,
people often fail to recognize inappropriate and rude behaviour in their own “friendly”
dogs. Bounding up to other dogs, jumping on or body slamming them or getting
all up in their face is extremely rude behaviour and could easily cause a
fight. This inability to communicate appropriately also tends to be the result
of inadequate socializing with other dogs, particularly past the puppy stage. Many
dog owners don’t realize that socialization is an ongoing process and attending
puppy classes is not enough. These dogs tend to carry their puppy style
greeting into adulthood when it’s no longer tolerated by other dogs. When
another dog growls or barks at the rude greeter it’s owner chastises the
other person for their dog's "aggressive" behaviour.</span><br />
<h4>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><br /></span></b></h4>
<span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><b>Being on the receiving end
of a lead reactive dog</b></span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">If
you’ve ever been on the recieveing end of a lead reactive dog you will
understand what a frightening experience it can be. If not, here’s an example
of what happened to me. A few months back, when I was 36 weeks pregnant with my
second child, I had an awful experience with two lead reactive dogs. My husband
and I took our 15-month old son and dog, Joseph, to a local park. After a lovely walk we
stopped at the playground to let our son play and explore. While he was happily
playing I was standing nearby watching with our dog, a very placid Labrador, on
lead. Several minutes later I heard loud barking and
turned around to see a man sitting on a bench nearby, his two dogs straining on their leads, intently focused on our dog who remained calm
and quiet. One appeared to be a Rottweiler mix and the other a Staffy mix. Upon
seeing the dogs behaving in this manner, and realizing the man wasn’t going to
move away, I immediately walked in the opposite direction behind a large piece
of play equipment. My intention being to create distance and a visual barrier
between Joseph and I and the two reactive dogs. </span></div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><br /></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">The
man remained on the bench and was struggling to control his dogs. Just as I was
about to move further away I heard the man yell out and both his dogs came
running up to me and Joseph, who was still on lead. It was an incredibly tense
moment and my heart was racing. I could tell from the stiff body language of
the other dogs that they were far from relaxed and friendly. After what seemed
like an eternity the dogs’ male owner came running over, his female companion
close behind, attempting to restrain his dogs. </span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">There were lots of young
children in the playground at the time and my husband was holding our
young son a meter or so away from us. The dog owners apologised profusely and
remained there with their dogs. We immediately left the park. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">At
the time I was so angry and in shock at the whole situation. All I wanted to do
was ensure my family was safe, so I didn’t engage in what could have been a
very valuable conversation with those dogs’ owners. I am so thankful that Joseph
is such a placid and social dog. It seemed as though he knew it was in his best
interest to remain calm and allow the dogs to sniff him intensely and not
react. Had it been our late boxer, Archie, in the same situation I know the
outcome would have been so much worse! I realise now that the dogs’ owners’
were just naive but that doesn’t change the fact their dogs are a huge
liability. Given the same situation with a less placid or anti-social dog, the outcome
could have been dire.</span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW8v_CpC_uBhG8Ny-3E6H5-tUKonC8sdKS3R97dtl_-z0r4qj-CRdzAa5sWTQssbp3ZX6sGcwfgEWdKOQC5SCwfLzAwvp85ap7q8NuAphcy6Ws5Ull9Ec3TN7Zq8W-GPpt0i57iwTeAJ0/s1600/CaneCorso_%252831%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW8v_CpC_uBhG8Ny-3E6H5-tUKonC8sdKS3R97dtl_-z0r4qj-CRdzAa5sWTQssbp3ZX6sGcwfgEWdKOQC5SCwfLzAwvp85ap7q8NuAphcy6Ws5Ull9Ec3TN7Zq8W-GPpt0i57iwTeAJ0/s320/CaneCorso_%252831%2529.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: xx-small;">(Image: Kumarrrr / CC-BY-SA-3.0)</span></td></tr>
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<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">Again,
just the other day while enjoying a walk with my boys in the pram and husband
walking our dog we were confronted by a mother with her two small
children walking a large American Bulldog. Upon seeing us she attempted to walk her
dog (who was straining on it’s lead, body stiff, focussing
intensely on our dog) behind a tree just off the footpath. I asked her if she’d
like us to cross the road and her response was “lets see how it goes.” Really?
Let's not! My husband immediately walked Joseph to the other side of the road passing the
dog with as much distance as possible. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><br /></span>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">As I walked past the family and their
obviously anxious dog the mother laughed it off, assuring me her dog was “the most beautiful dog
in the world at home” but that he behaves this way because he was “attacked by
another dog as a puppy”. This is unfortunate for sure and if I had a dollar for
every time I heard a client say those words… The problem is, the explanation for
the behaviour doesn’t fix the behaviour, nor does it keep the community safe.
As dog owners we have a responsibility to keep our dogs safe and the people and
dogs around us safe as well. If you have a dog that’s reactive or aggressive
towards other dogs or people you have a responsibility to your dog and your community to seek professional help from a reputable
dog trainer or qualified animal behaviourist. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial";">Having regularly been called in as an
expert witness, to conduct temperament assessments on dogs that injured a person or another dog, I can assure
you their owners also proclaimed how great their dogs are with kids and
dogs they know. However that’s not the point. The point is that these issues need to be address before they become serious and endanger others. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial";">Read <a href="http://katemornementanimalbehaviourist.blogspot.com.au/2016/12/lead-reactivity-part-2-how-to-avoid-or.html" target="_blank">Lead Reactivity Part 2</a> to learn how to avoid your dog from developing lead
reactivity/aggression in the first place (because prevention is better than cure!) and what to do if your dog is already
lead reactive/aggressive.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial";">Don't forget to follow Dr Kate on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PetsBehavingBadlyDrKate/" target="_blank">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/petbehaviourist/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>!</span><br />
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</div>
Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-74353416495634650472016-09-13T22:25:00.000-07:002019-01-13T21:07:58.236-08:00Preparing Your Pets for the Arrival of Your Baby<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The arrival of</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> a baby is a highly anticipated,
exciting, overwhelming, and joyous event. With all the thought and preparation
that goes into setting up the home and nursery, the regular pregnancy check ups
and dealing with all the symptoms of pregnancy itself (hello morning sickness, hormones, tiredness, aches and pains etc), many expectant parents forget their pets may
need help adjusting to the imminent changes.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Recovering from the birth, whether
natural or cesarean, can take up to 6 weeks or more. Coupled with the sleep
deprivation and exhaustion that comes hand in hand with caring for a newborn (feeding,
changing, burping, settling, bathing etc), finding the time and patience to
deal with behaviour problems in your pets can be difficult. Indeed, this is
often when I get a call from distraught parents whose pet's behaviour has severely deteriorated.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The good news is that a little preparation and know
how can help reduce the likelihood you’ll encounter problems with your pet once
your baby comes home. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUdUb9zMWCY8hG7Y4iwiTK_TbRFBYtmNDlSGW1r6JRagLZcZLXZC2C0y2SGV1mBJx0s7S78gNrpxTTOoL7-5X6A6-OhrKD-ItLoO4qtUunXa2uc_O3QUQOHVpmJIbGfIyMgN7qR20zQ-U/s1600/8218874151_71cdbce7d7_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUdUb9zMWCY8hG7Y4iwiTK_TbRFBYtmNDlSGW1r6JRagLZcZLXZC2C0y2SGV1mBJx0s7S78gNrpxTTOoL7-5X6A6-OhrKD-ItLoO4qtUunXa2uc_O3QUQOHVpmJIbGfIyMgN7qR20zQ-U/s400/8218874151_71cdbce7d7_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(Photo: <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/elisaself/8218874151" target="_blank">source</a>)</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bringing home baby can affect pets differently</span></b></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Having a baby brings with it significant changes to
your life and your routine will change to accommodate and care for your new
little bundle. Pets will be affected by these changes in different ways,
depending on their personality and temperament, past experiences and the degree
to which their routine changes once the baby arrives. For example, if your dog
is timid and a little fearful in general and in unfamiliar situations, it's
probably more likely to find a baby a bit scary at first. Whereas if your dog
is generally calm and relaxed and not phased by novelty then you may find they
adjust very well to sharing their home with your new little person.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Archie checking out Nate and his toy</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This was evident in my own dogs when our first baby
came home from hospital. Our nine year old boxer, Archie, was very curious and
interested yet quite anxious about Nathan, whereas our
eight year old Labrador, Joseph, was very nonchalant. This surprised me.
Although neither dog had any prior experience with babies, I had expected
Archie would be fascinated and attentive to our little one but this was not the case. Archie didn’t cope very well not having the same level of attention and interaction he
normally received from me. I continued to work on teaching him to associate little
Nathan with lots of positive experiences and was making good progress. Sadly,
after several weeks we discovered Archie had advanced lymphoma. He died
peacefully at home when Nate was just four months old.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Joseph remains unfazed by Nate, now 16 months old,
and is most interested in him when he’s eating (Nate drops a lot of food) –
typical Lab!. When our second baby, Zachary, arrived last month it was as if
Joe barely noticed. He remains his usual laid back self and we have maintained his normal routine as much as possible.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Joe knows to stay on his bed until Nate has finished eating</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The experiences your pet has with your baby, good
and bad, will also influence how they cope. Being mindful to ensure their
interactions are positive will help their relationship get off to the right
start. We continue to build a positive association between Joseph and the boys by including Joe in family life, going on regular walks together and rewarding Joe's good behaviour with his favourite thing - FOOD!</span><br />
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<h4>
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My tips for success</span></b></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My own experiences introducing our two dogs to our babies reinforced to me that preparation really is the key to success.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here is a general list of some of the things you
can do to help your pet adjust to life with a newborn.
Ideally, many of these changes should be made well before the baby arrives to
allow your pet time to become accustomed to them: </span><br />
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<ul>
<li><span style="text-indent: -36pt;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Introduce nursery furniture and other baby-related
items (e.g. bouncer, play gym, pram etc) as early as possible and pair them
with high value treats for calm and compliant behaviour. This helps to create a
positive association with the new items. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -36pt;">Use baby gates to section off any areas of the home
you don't want your pet to access once baby is home.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -36pt;">Ensure your pet is compliant and well behaved and,
if not, address any behaviour issues with the help of a reputable trainer or
behaviourist. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -48px;">Take your pet to the vet for a check up. If your vet identifies a health problem, it can be treated and, hopefully, </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">alleviated prior to baby coming home.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -36pt;">Teach your dog to be comfortable walking next to
the pram. Walking your dog with the baby is a great way to create a positive
association with bubs for your dog. Teaching your dog to stay on a mat or bed is another very useful behaviour which allows your dog to be near you without getting under your feet.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -36pt;">If your pet usually sleeps on your bed and you plan
to feed your baby in bed, you may not want your pet to sleep there once your
baby arrives. If this is the case, teach your pet to sleep elsewhere, such as
on their own bed on the floor.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -36pt;">Play sounds of babies cooing and crying and pair
with high value treats for calm and compliant behaviour. This will help to
create a positive association with these sounds and reduce the chance of your
pet fearing your new baby.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -36pt;">Try to implement any changes to your pet’s routine
prior to the baby arriving. For example, if you plan to feed and walk them at
different times once baby comes home, begin doing so well beforehand if
possible.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -36pt;">Once your baby is born, have your partner or a
family member bring home a blanket with your baby's scent on it. Let your pet
smell the blanket and pair with praise, pats and high value treat. Everything
baby should be wonderful for your pet!</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: -36pt;">Provide your pet with a quiet, safe place they can
retreat to. A crying baby can stress pets out too! For dogs,
access to another room with a comfy bed or the outdoors on sunny days is ideal.
For cats confined to the house, cat towers or shelving with a bed or enclosed
pod provide a place they can escape to if they feel unsure. Access to outdoor
space via a cat park or enclosure can also help reduce stress.</span></li>
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<h4>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The introduction</span></b></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pets can easily become
overwhelmed with the excitement of their owner coming home from the hospital so
introducing your pet to your baby should be done as calmly and quietly as
possible. Waiting until your pet is calm and your baby is fed and sleeping is
ideal. Sitting down and holding your baby while your partner brings your dog
into the room on a lead is a good option for calm and obedient dogs. For more
excitable dogs, a baby gate separating them from you and your baby adds an
extra element of safety.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Use verbal praise, pats and favourite
treats to reward calm and compliant behaviour in the presence of the baby. This
should continue on a daily basis and in different situations (e.g. when baby is
crying, in a carrier, in the pram, in the bassinet, being changed, being fed
etc) and will help your pet learn to associate the baby, and being calm and
compliant when in their presence, with lots of positive experiences. Begin with short training sessions (a minute or two) and gradually increase the duration if your pet is coping well. Begin to allow your pet to spend more time near your baby (under supervision) and include them in daily activities once you can see they're calm and comfortable in the presence of the baby.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<h4>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From newborn to infant to toddler and beyond</span></b></h4>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Archie enjoying <i>gentle</i> pats</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As your baby grows and develops
they will become more mobile and curious about your pet. Babies and young
children like to grab and touch with their hands and get their face up close to
things that interest them. This makes most pets very uncomfortable. Children
are poor at reading and responding to the early warning signs (avoidance, wide eyes, lip licking, yawning etc). Indeed, <a href="https://www.ava.com.au/sites/default/files/AVA_website/pdfs/Dangerous%20dogs%20-%20a%20sensible%20solution%20FINAL.pdf" target="_blank">statistics</a>
show that incidents of dog bites most often occur in the home environment and
involve children and dogs that are known to them. Pets and children should
ALWAYS be supervised when together, no matter how much you trust your pet. If
they can’t be supervised, they must be safely separated. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Seeking assistance from a
reputable trainer or behaviourist to assess your pet and help you prepare them for the arrival of your baby is highly recommended. These professionals can tailor a management, training and behaviour modification
plan to you and your pet’s individual situation and provide ongoing support if
needed.</span><br />
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<h4>
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Further information and
resources</span></b></h4>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Books:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #420178;"><a href="https://books.google.com.au/books?id=W-ZUYgEACAAJ&dq=how+to+tell+your+dog+you%27re+pregnant&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiWyYrd7t3OAhVFj5QKHbdjCp8Q6AEIIDAB">Tell your dog you're pregnant</a> </span>and <span style="color: #420178;"><a href="https://books.google.com.au/books?id=qu7dCwAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=how+to+tell+your+dog+you%27re+pregnant&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiWyYrd7t3OAhVFj5QKHbdjCp8Q6AEIJTAC#v=onepage&q=how%20to%20tell%20your%20dog%20you're%20pregnant&f=false">Tell your cat you're pregnant</a> </span>by Dr Lewis
Kirkham<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #420178; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.kathysdogtraining.com.au/baby-book/4591578748">How to introduce your dog to your baby</a></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> by
Kathy Kopellis McLeod</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Websites:</span><br />
<a href="http://agriculture.vic.gov.au/pets/community-and-education/responsible-pet-ownership-for-children/we-are-family-for-expectant-parents" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We are Family - for expectant parents</span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> (The
Victoria Government)</span></div>
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Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-2781304468477858952016-08-08T00:15:00.001-07:002019-04-27T20:47:59.643-07:00When your dog dies: Coping with the loss of a canine companionIt's a time every dog owner dreads. And although it's inevitable at some point, most of us push the thought of our beloved dogs no longer being with us to the very back of our minds. This is not surprising, considering the close relationship most of us share with our companion animals.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCuzIf1PBc4QtAoz7fSqxbH-jgJkgYxLwer0zGwhc1If3Ok-ZvrgbpsymjTfMU4DTRk8p-oqGtKcVO1FyjjLKWKfGdxkY_gUuib55h9LPbIq30kzQBMOyj9DQQhCxlAU8C6PQtOfhng0I/s1600/old+dog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCuzIf1PBc4QtAoz7fSqxbH-jgJkgYxLwer0zGwhc1If3Ok-ZvrgbpsymjTfMU4DTRk8p-oqGtKcVO1FyjjLKWKfGdxkY_gUuib55h9LPbIq30kzQBMOyj9DQQhCxlAU8C6PQtOfhng0I/s400/old+dog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden Oldie (Source: chriswsn on Flickr)</td></tr>
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<b>Pet attachment, loss and grief</b><br />
Pets are considered family members and significant attachment figures, especially in Western culture. Characteristics of our relationships with pets mirror those of our relationships with people and include unconditional love, acceptance and distress at separation (Brown & Symons, 2016). Not surprisingly, the loss of a beloved pet, especially an unexpected loss, can be profound with <span style="font-family: inherit;">complicated
grief, depression and trauma commonly experienced. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Symptoms of grief can include loss of sleep and appetite, decreased social activity, difficulty
concentrating, loss of motivation, stress, depression, anxiety, worry, anger,
loneliness, guilt, sadness and feelings of emptiness. It has even been
suggested that the passing of a pet can evoke the same level of grief as the
passing of a spouse or family member and that people move through the same stages of
grieving for pets as they would people. Perhaps not surprisingly, people
who lose a pet suddenly (e.g. car accident) tend to experience more severe grief than
those whose dog dies from an illness (Brown & Symons, 2016; Kimora et al.,
2014).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJvtA_QkWBZcnoreYGnATlhkKOM3nbrCYKMIt7jCmzqePkBUVuOONF1vmrmaOFFH7pR19Nflwg9CTC3rqh9yv0xNVcYL9B7a337-SfshGJnUS_COdZsLl5X63BY3Jw6KEMcQ9F_TfE-Y/s1600/Older-Dog-Loss.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJvtA_QkWBZcnoreYGnATlhkKOM3nbrCYKMIt7jCmzqePkBUVuOONF1vmrmaOFFH7pR19Nflwg9CTC3rqh9yv0xNVcYL9B7a337-SfshGJnUS_COdZsLl5X63BY3Jw6KEMcQ9F_TfE-Y/s320/Older-Dog-Loss.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Research has found that our attachment style (the way we form social relationships) significantly influences the way we deal with the loss of a companion. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Attachment_theory" target="_blank">Attachment theory</a> addresses how infants and children form social relationships and, depending on the individuals experiences, can be secure or insecure. It is proposed that these early relationships with caregivers influence future social relationships throughout life.<br />
<br />
Two dimensions, <i>anxiety </i>(i.e. excessive worry, distrust and concern a partner will not be available when needed) and <i>avoidance </i>(i.e. discomfort with closeness, depending on others and emotional intimacy), have been described in adult attachment in romantic relationships (Brown & Symons, 2016). These same dimensions have been found by Zilcha-Mano et al., (2012), who developed the <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/259191164_Pet_Attachment_Questionnaire" target="_blank">Pet Attachment Questionnaire</a>, in our relationships with pets. People who are anxiously attached to their pet may be predisposed to trauma and complicated grief if they tend to fixate and worry about their relationships. Furthermore, bereaved pet owners may suffer from more severe grief symptoms if they've experienced a number of stressful events (e.g. changes in family structure, illness, work issues) in quick succession (Kimora et al., 2014).<br />
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<b>What can you do to ease the pain?</b><br />
Everyone deals with grief a little differently. Acknowledging that you've experienced a significant loss and taking time for self care is important. Some people help heal the wound by getting another dog and this has been found to have a positive impact on emotional adjustment and coping with a loss (Brown & Symons, 2016). Whereas others may prefer to take time to grieve and recover from their loss before they are ready for a new companion.<br />
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span><span style="text-align: center;">I asked my very good friend and pet bereavement specialist, <a href="https://www.linkedin.com/in/vanessa-rohlf-a347a120" target="_blank">Dr Vanessa Rohlf</a>, for her top three tips for coping with the death of a pet. Here they are:</span><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">Accept your feelings
for what they are and accept them with kindness and without judgment.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
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mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
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<!--StartFragment--><span lang="EN-AU" style="line-height: 107%;">Grief can comes in
waves. It can be triggered by reminders of things (e.g., collars, pet beds),
places (e.g., veterinary clinic, a favourite place your pet used to lie),
people and sometimes there is no trigger. Ride with the waves. They provide us
with an opportunity to process our loss.</span><!--EndFragment--> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">
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<!--StartFragment--><span lang="EN-AU" style="line-height: 107%;">Seek support from
friends and family. Talk to your friends and family. Support from significant
people in your life can be so important to the healing process.</span><!--EndFragment--> </span></li>
</ol>
<br />
When we lost our Boxer Archie in 2015 and our Labrador Joseph just this week, I certainly found that spending time with family and friends helped to ease the pain, as did talking about our memories of them, looking at photos and watching videos. Archie had lymphoma and we knew that his time was limited and Joseph was 12 and had been battling health issues for a while. This was a blessing in a way because we were able to make the most of the time we had left with them. We were also able to plan how we would say goodbye.<br />
<br />
We had both Archie and Joseph euthanised at home, where they were relaxed and comfortable, and both were cremated afterwards. As hard as it was to say goodbye to our boys, choosing the way we did it helped us cope better with their loss. There are some really amazing compassionate people and services available to assist and they make saying goodbye that little bit more bearable. Dr Emma from <a href="http://mybestfriendonline.com.au/" target="_blank">My Best Friend - Home euthanasia service</a> and <a href="http://edenhills.com.au/" target="_blank">Eden Hills Pet Cremation</a> both offer beautiful services.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYwWaLQJAxj-lEwljkLtvTKqFLTsK6Q989VHEsreSEu3FQWoTlQ2erRlXF_WSM4ea9vTc6kMhh6fWSLNHs4_rCy7TGXssuCALVX8S5KXIN1y7Yz5laghH6jwkBC-pTmV9LcGGBYDPZWow/s640/blogger-image-1494954307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYwWaLQJAxj-lEwljkLtvTKqFLTsK6Q989VHEsreSEu3FQWoTlQ2erRlXF_WSM4ea9vTc6kMhh6fWSLNHs4_rCy7TGXssuCALVX8S5KXIN1y7Yz5laghH6jwkBC-pTmV9LcGGBYDPZWow/s320/blogger-image-1494954307.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I miss those beautiful big Boxer paws</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi20yVvDI8D-1xSg455UTBxYDIhZgd_h6tf0zG7VFGxJ6ATrbPAEv48eAOEFyAz_P0NrIALiU96xmCvhyBOYZU3zRZGB-hpnP8FuMG9FHtV5cTpsQUeplmBVLCbPiw7CR1nY24sGh-dC4/s1600/58647189_10157318756846942_1551739785322692608_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi20yVvDI8D-1xSg455UTBxYDIhZgd_h6tf0zG7VFGxJ6ATrbPAEv48eAOEFyAz_P0NrIALiU96xmCvhyBOYZU3zRZGB-hpnP8FuMG9FHtV5cTpsQUeplmBVLCbPiw7CR1nY24sGh-dC4/s320/58647189_10157318756846942_1551739785322692608_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joseph and baby Lenny (soon after we adopted him)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Having Lenny, our adopted Border Collie, also helps ease the grief. So far he seems to be coping well without Joseph. I'm not seeing any signs of stress or anxiety or concern for where he's gone. However it's still early days and we are conscious to spend as much time with him as we possibly can. We have been a two dog household since moving out of home and having our own dogs. Although we'd love nothing more than to welcome another dog into our home, with two toddlers, the timing just isn't right. For now we looking forward to watching Lenny and our boys grow together.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i style="font-family: inherit; text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i style="font-family: inherit; text-align: center;"><b>"The pain of their loss is the price we pay for the joy they bring and the pleasure of their company."</b></i></div>
<i style="font-family: inherit; text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></i>
In my own experience with pet loss and grief I've found that acknowledging that life is short for our canine companions helps me to be prepared for the inevitable. When we're not in denial about this we can truly be with our dogs in the moment and soak up the precious time we share with them. Having experienced both sudden and expected losses, I did find that the expected losses were easier to cope with. That said, loss is loss and it's hard. I always say that the pain of their loss is the price we pay for the joy they bring and the pleasure of their company.<br />
<br />
Although the grief associated with the loss of a beloved companion does ease with time, if you find yourself struggling to cope it's important you seek help. Talking to family and friends is a good start and speaking with a counsellor who specialises in pet bereavement, such as <a href="http://drvanessarohlf.com.au/" target="_blank">Dr Vanessa Rohlf</a>, is even better.<br />
<br />
Dr Kate x<br />
<br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>References:</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><br /></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Brown, O. K., & Symons, D. K.
(2016). “My pet has passed”: Relations of adult attachment styles and current
feelings of grief and trauma after the event. </span><i><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Death studies</span></i><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">, </span><i><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">40</span></i><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">(4), 247-255.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Kimura, Y., Kawabata, H., &
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Morley, C., & Fook, J. (2005). The importance of pet loss and some
implications for services. </span><i><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Mortality</span></i><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">, </span><i><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">10</span></i><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">(2), 127-143</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: inherit;">Zilcha-Mano, S., Mikulincer, M., & Shaver, P. R. (2012).
Pets as safe havens and secure bases: The moderating role of pet attachment
orientations. </span><i style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: inherit;">Journal of Research in Personality</i><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: inherit;">, </span><i style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: inherit;">46</i><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: inherit;">(5), 571-580.</span></div>
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Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-13735002135865562832016-07-24T21:52:00.001-07:002016-07-24T23:27:14.585-07:00Blogging again: Some news and what's to come...<b>Hello and welcome!</b><br />
Welcome to the Pets Behaving Badly blog, version 2.0! So yeah, I've been <strike>a bit</strike> ok, VERY slack the last few years, blogging-wise, but I'm excited to be back and hopefully posting on a regular (or at least semi-regular) basis.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEgm4-Im4SQz80MaixQza1SfM_N8uHBfSvOQnyUfvNk1HXSJAqgRQ-E2bT6TM44x0tVb4rE3oAxTgdRczGe_CNvnhJmqGBwE16Nfz2Y801vMpH4dWyTDbOD6Q04POk4QOahXtdRI9B4A/s1600/_MG_5555_KateandDave_Webready.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="img" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEgm4-Im4SQz80MaixQza1SfM_N8uHBfSvOQnyUfvNk1HXSJAqgRQ-E2bT6TM44x0tVb4rE3oAxTgdRczGe_CNvnhJmqGBwE16Nfz2Y801vMpH4dWyTDbOD6Q04POk4QOahXtdRI9B4A/s400/_MG_5555_KateandDave_Webready.jpg" title="img" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>So, what's news?</b><br />
Let's just say that life got in the way a bit, as it tends to do, but some pretty exciting stuff has been happening. Firstly, I became a mum! Last May my husband and I welcomed our first little human, Nathan, into the world. I can't believe he's nearly 15 months old already. Everyone says the first year flies and it really did. Being a parent has been such an incredible experience and we are beyond excited to be expecting our second little person next month. I'm currently on maternity leave and taking a break from consulting but I anticipate returning to work, on a part-time basis, in March next year. In the mean time I'm looking forward to keeping in touch via Facebook: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Pets-Behaving-Badly-with-Dr-Kate-Animal-Behaviourist-146852308670268/" target="_blank">Pets Behaving Badly with Dr Kate - Animal Behaviourist</a> and this blog.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHh2ejsOI3pNDdLQJo3xlB5DLua4irCbJXHqODd-ygKlomXLxsfGVCsi-jJDluN4AvNvvgvbcG7mJFC_eloXR7VMOQ2wqzwnPd6JyKwTyOk8SZj-ng_a-U2FP62bHE0779BNN6GcSqlA0/s640/blogger-image-1702431489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHh2ejsOI3pNDdLQJo3xlB5DLua4irCbJXHqODd-ygKlomXLxsfGVCsi-jJDluN4AvNvvgvbcG7mJFC_eloXR7VMOQ2wqzwnPd6JyKwTyOk8SZj-ng_a-U2FP62bHE0779BNN6GcSqlA0/s200/blogger-image-1702431489.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me and my little man, Nate</td></tr>
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The other exciting news is that I finished my PhD. HOORAY! My research focused on public attitudes towards shelter dogs and the assessment of dog behaviour to determine adoption suitability. It was a long and challenging "journey" but simultaneously lots of fun and incredibly rewarding. I recently wrote a <a href="http://petproblemsolved.com.au/blog/assessing-shelter-dog-behaviour-determine-adoption-suitability-meaningful-misleading/" target="_blank">guest post</a> summarising my research and findings for <a href="http://petproblemsolved.com.au/blog/" target="_blank">Dr Jo Righetti's blog</a>, if you'd like to know more.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Graduation day. Doing a PhD does make you a little crazy :)</td></tr>
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Mostly life has been awesome! Except when we had to say goodbye to our much loved Boxer, Archie, in September last year. Archie was diagnosed with advanced lymphoma and only lived another 6 weeks after his initial diagnosis. He was 9 years old and we miss him terribly. He has left a Boxer-shaped hole in our world and we so look forward to the day we welcome another Boxer into our home. I'm so glad that our little fella Nate met Archie but I'm not sure the feeling was mutual. I'll be writing about introducing babies and existing pets as well as pet loss, including my personal experiences, in future posts.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuz4nD65q0SKWSDd36iNhTGUL2VhrS47mZOQvVEyWdc1Zqc8liw-GJ9gT33AU4tmsTTOkVsoGQxMD_IUYPjnBPxjWYYZ_jRaNf9ledbcUL8aj6flZr_kO-bF81VbLslfzKEWj0qQULbSA/s1600/image1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuz4nD65q0SKWSDd36iNhTGUL2VhrS47mZOQvVEyWdc1Zqc8liw-GJ9gT33AU4tmsTTOkVsoGQxMD_IUYPjnBPxjWYYZ_jRaNf9ledbcUL8aj6flZr_kO-bF81VbLslfzKEWj0qQULbSA/s320/image1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Archie (9 years) and Nathan (9 weeks)</td></tr>
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Other than kids and a PhD, running <a href="http://petsbehavingbadly.com.au/" target="_blank">Pets Behaving Badly</a> has kept me very busy. Most of my work still involves consulting pet owners to help them understand and modify problem behaviour but I also consult to industry and those working with animals in a professional capacity. I continue to write freelance about all things animal behaviour, for magazines like <a href="https://petsmagazine.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Pets Magazine</a>, and recently wrote a book chapter about companion animals for a tertiary text book about Human-Animal Interactions. In addition to this I work as an expert witness in cases involving menacing or dangerous dogs, present seminars and workshops and occasionally lecture in human-animal relationships at LaTrobe University.<br />
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<b>That's nice but why should I follow this blog?</b><br />
Good question! If you love pets and you're interested to learn more about their behaviour, welfare and management then this is your kind of blog and you should subscribe for regular updates! No pressure :)<br />
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Posts will draw on my experiences as an applied animal behaviourist, research scientists and mum to provide readers with helpful and practical tips to understand, manage and resolve common pet behaviour problems and to enhance the owner-pet relationship. I also plan to bring you the latest scientific discoveries relevant to companion animals and the human-animal bond.<br />
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Your input and suggestions for blog posts is most welcome. So if you have a question, or a concern regarding your pet's behaviour, let us know via the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Pets-Behaving-Badly-with-Dr-Kate-Animal-Behaviourist-146852308670268/" target="_blank">Facebook page</a> and we'll do our best to write about it in a blog post.<br />
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In the mean time, go have fun with your pets!<br />
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Dr Kate :)<br />
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<br />Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-90829785361880910062013-04-11T20:14:00.000-07:002013-04-11T20:16:31.037-07:00Learning lots to help people and their pets!After a bit of a hiatus from blogging, I'm back!! There's been lots of exciting things happening since my last post, and some super exciting stuff on the horizon, so here's an update on all that....<br />
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Last year I was lucky to participate in a number of professional development and further education workshops, seminars and conferences, both in Australia and overseas. I'm a huge proponent of ongoing education because we never stop learning in life and so I'm committed to continually broadening my knowledge and acquiring more experience as a behaviourist. This ensures I'm able to bring the most up-to-date, scientific and ethical training techniques to my clients.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clicker training Carolyn to peck the black disk at Chicken Camp</td></tr>
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Here's some of the ongoing education I did last year (click on the links for more information):<br />
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<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.dunbarinoz.com/" target="_blank">Science Based Training (with Feeling) Seminar</a> in Melbourne - Dr Ian Dunbar </li>
<li><a href="http://www.legacycanine.com/workshops/chicken-camps.html" target="_blank">Chicken Camp workshop</a> in Perth, Australia - Terry Ryan , Legacy Canine</li>
<li><a href="http://www.sheddaquarium.org/adults.html" target="_blank">Professional Animal Training workshop</a> - Ken Ramirez, Shedd Aquarium, Chicago.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.behaviorworks.org/htm/lla_professional_overview.html" target="_blank">Living and Learning with Animals online course</a> - Dr Susan Friedman, Behaviour Works</li>
<li><a href="http://www.apdt.com.au/news-and-events/apdt-events.html" target="_blank">Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT)</a> Conference 2012</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me with Dr Sophia Yin at the APDT 2012 conference</td></tr>
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So far, 2013 has been a busy year for my consulting business <a href="http://petsbehavingbadly.com.au/" target="_blank">Pets Behaving Badly</a>. I've had lots of behaviour consultations, helping pets and their people to resolve a range of different behaviour problems. Most of my clients are dogs and cats, but I also see quite a few pet parrots, especially since recently partnering with <a href="http://www.bird-vet.com/" target="_blank">Bird Vet Melbourne</a> to deliver in-clinic behaviour consultations. Most of the behaviour problems I help with are fear and/or anxiety based and include various forms of aggression, escaping (dogs), destructive behaviour and general disobedience. Other common behaviour problems include inappropriate toileting, jumping up (dogs), poor recall (dogs) and screaming (parrots). I really love doing behaviour consultations. It's so rewarding! I've also been writing lots of articles on animal behaviour for various print and online publications including <a href="http://www.petpages.com.au/a/author/kate_mornement" target="_blank">Pet Pages</a>.<br />
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In a couple of weeks I'll be realising a life-long dream; I'm off to South Africa to do volunteer work, mainly with lion cubs. I'm so excited to have this amazing opportunity and I'll definitely be blogging about my experiences there. So, until then, I'll leave you with a gratuitous photo of a lion cub....<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuute!!!!!</td></tr>
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Happy training! :)</div>
Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-48600618675206615562012-11-04T01:00:00.004-08:002012-11-04T01:00:59.292-08:00Animal Behaviour Seminars, Workshops and a bit of Parrot Behaviour Consulting<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wow! It's been a long time since my last blog post! Since returning home from the Animal Training Workshop at Shedd Aquarium in Chicago, work has been incredibly busy. Here's a run down of what I've been up to during the last two months...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Upon my return I got busy working on a professional development seminar for animal care staff at <a href="http://www.melbourneaquarium.com.au/home" target="_blank">Melbourne Aquarium</a>. Months ago I'd been approached by the organisation to develop and run several workshops on animal behaviour and training for their staff who car for numerous species of fish and King and Gentoo penguins. I ran two workshops in mid September, with the help of my brilliant colleague and helper, Mia Cobb. What fun! The Melbourne Aquarium staff were fabulous and the feedback from the workshops was amazing. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I found Nemo!!!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here's a testimonial I received from the Manager of the Bird Department:</span> <blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Kate provided staff at Melbourne Aquarium with a great understanding of theoretical and practical applications to animal training. Our seminar was both fun and educational. Kate presented the information in a way that was suitable for beginner as well as experienced animal trainers. With fun activities, videos and observing in-house practices, the staff enjoyed an educational seminar on animal behaviour and training".</i></blockquote>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Staff training workshop (in the PARTY room) at Melbourne Aquarium</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The workshops, designed in consultation with management and specific to the needs of the organisation, included theory (PowerPoint presentation), observational learning (watching animals) and practical skill building (applying the theory in training) components.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meeting the beautiful King penguins</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In addition to the professional workshops, I ran a Parrot Health & Behaviour seminar along with Specialist Avian Veterinarian <a href="http://www.bird-vet.com/" target="_blank">Dr Patricia Macwhirter</a>, for parrot care-givers in Melbourne. The event was a great success with twenty-five attendants including parrot owners, breeders and bird trainers. Several attendees provided fantastic feedback on the day and one called me the following day to say how educational and worthwhile he'd found the seminar. He and his friend had travelled from rural N.S.W. to attend. Amazing!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Presenting about companion parrot behaviour at my seminar</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I will be running another seminar; 'The Science of Dog Behaviour & Training' at the end of November in Melbourne. I'm really looking forward to helping attendees better understand their dog's behaviour and how to get the best behaviour from their canine companions. We have support for the event from some great companies including <a href="http://www.kongcompany.com/" target="_blank">Kong</a>, <a href="http://www.love-em.com.au/" target="_blank">Love'em</a> and <a href="http://www.dogdiggity.com.au/" target="_blank">Dog Diggity</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In addition to organising and running seminars and workshops on animal training and behaviour I've recently partnered with an Avian vet clinic in Melbourne to deliver in-clinic bird behaviour consultations. I've had the opportunity to meet some very dedicated and caring parrot owners who want the best for their birds. This work is incredibly rewarding!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Well, that's it for now. My next blog post will provide an overview of some ongoing education I've completed recently including attending the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) Australia conference and completing Dr Susan Friedman's Living and Learning with Animals for Professionals course. Bye for now :)</span></div>
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Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-13246691252423744862012-08-29T21:00:00.000-07:002012-08-29T21:01:10.057-07:00Professional Animal Training Workshop at the Shedd Aquarium - Part 2The first two days of the Animal Training Workshop at Shedd Aquarium were absolutely fantastic. Little did I know it was going to get EVEN better! How so? Well, you'll just have to read on!<br />
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<b>Day 3:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>Wednesday began in the usual way. Most of us arrived just after 8:30am. Coffee, juice, bagels and yummy pastries laid out again as they had been each day - spoilt! The first item on the agenda for the day was an exam to assess our knowledge of what we had learned over the past two days. Piece of cake!<br />
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The lectures on day three covered 'One on One vs Group Training' and included 'stationing strategies' (where you teach an animal to go to a particular location) and 'new animal introductions' and 'Providing Your Animal with Variety' (in training sessions, habitat selection, play sessions, social structure and toys). We then moved onto 'Advanced Techniques and Concepts' in training which require experience to apply. This topic covered 'defining your criteria', 'secondary reinforcers', 'schedules of reinforcement' and 'punishment, negative reinforcers and aversive stimuli'.<br />
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We observed training sessions with a <span style="color: blue;">Barred Owl</span>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Horned_Owl" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Great Horned Owl</span></a> and a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harris_hawk" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Harris Hawk</span></a>. These sessions concentrated on desensitising the birds to a large crowd of people (us!), teaching them to accept tactile from their trainer, stationing and target training.<br />
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At 6pm we had a lovely social dinner at Shedd but immediately prior to that was the most incredible surprise. At about 5pm we were taken to the room where staff prepare guests for animal encounter experiences. It was at this point we were told that we were all going to have a once a lifetime Beluga whale encounter. After being fitted with some super stylish brown waders we headed for the Beluga habitat. In my group was Sharon (a horse trainer), Mariela (a dog trainer), Allison (a zookeeper), Erin (who wants to be a marine mammal trainer) and myself. Our group was very fortunate to be led by Ken Ramirez himself who introduced us to Kayavak, a 13 year old female Beluga. Ken has known and trained her since she was born at Shedd. Ken and Kayavak have the most amazingly close relationship, unlike anything I've seen between a trainer and non-domestic animal. She followed him everywhere and relished the chance to have Ken tickle her tongue - hilarious!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me hand targeting Kavayak, the Beluga whale</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_45638002"></span>We each got to cue several behaviours with Kayavak including targeting, <a href="http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/spyhop" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">spy-hopping</span></a>, spitting water, vocalising and various other husbandry behaviours. This was an experience we will never forget!<br />
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<b>Day 4:</b><br />
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Thursday began with lectures and we continued on with 'Advanced Training Concepts'. Topics covered were 'conditioned punishers', 'recall training' and 'chained behaviour'. We then moved onto 'Aggression' and 'Solving Problem Behaviour'. Ken spoke about aggression being a normal behaviour and that almost all animals have some degree of aggression in their behavioural repertoire. We tend to forget (or fail to acknowledge) this when it comes to our companion animals. Ken spoke of the importance of 'identifying the problem', 'planning', 'determining the cause' of problem behaviour and 'considering the balance of reinforcers vs punishers (motivation)' and that once a behaviour modification plan had been implemented that 'behaviour analysis and constant monitoring' is critical to evaluate its effectiveness.<br />
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Animal training sessions included sessions with Tyler and Tanner (Californian Sea Lions) in which Ken continued to work on the training goals he had set at the start of the week: A voluntary blood draw (for Tyler) and Free Contact with Tanner. We also saw a training session with two <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_otter" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Sea Otters</span></a>. The trainers worked on a range of behaviours including targeting (multiple targets and body parts), stationing, accepting being caught in a net, porpoise (kind of like a duck dive), retrieve objects, go inside a crate etc.<br />
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After another jam packed day of learning, networking and observing training sessions I went to dinner with a friend I met at the workshop.<br />
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<b>Day 5:</b><br />
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As I walked to Shedd in the sunshine on the final day of the workshop I was sad that it was coming to an end. The people and animals I'd met, friends I'd made, conversations I'd had and knowledge gained made for a memorable and extremely enjoyable week in Chicago.<br />
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Friday began with our final exam which tested our knowledge of topics covered on the previous two days. After that, we met two very cool animals; a Black and White Tegu called Uncle Fester and an Aracari called Beau.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Target training "Uncle Fester" the Black and White Tegu</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Training "Beau", the gorgeous Aracari, to station on the hand</td></tr>
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During the lunch break we got to see the Aquatic Show which starred the Pacific White-sided dolphins, Beluga whales, Tyler the California sea lion and Ken Ramirez! It was a great opportunity to see how the training we had observed throughout the week is applied in shows to demonstrate species specific behaviour, animal intelligence, communicate critical conservation messages and the special relationships the trainers have with the animals to the general public.<br />
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After lunch we broke into groups to play some trainer games. Each group was provided with a bag containing about 20 small objects (e.g. toy cars, dominoes, dice, toy animals etc). We played three different versions of the game in which one person was the trainer and another person was the animal. The trainer used a clicker to mark a desired behaviour and verbal praise to reinforce it. The first game involved teaching the animal to perform three different behaviours (e.g. move toy car along table surface) and then put each behaviour on a different cue. The second game also required the trainer to teach the animal three behaviours on cue and in addition, to chain the behaviours together and introduce a new cue for the three chained behaviours. Talk about a challenge! These games were lots of fun and an invaluable way to gain insight into the way another animal learns. The games also helped us improve our timing of marking and reinforcing desired behaviour.<br />
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In the afternoon we made our way to the last training sessions with Tyler and Tanner. Watching Ken train Tyler throughout the week was certainly one of my highlights. They share such a unique and close relationship. Tyler's personality and behaviour really reminds me of a giant playful dog.<br />
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Just as we lined up to observe Tyler's last session Ken told us another amazing surprise. Each of us was given the opportunity to be "kissed" on the cheek by Tyler. Of course, every single one of us jumped at the opportunity! While this may seem like an enormous task for Tyler, he easily accomplished it. Ken kept up a very high rate of reinforcement and took breaks in between kisses to work on other behaviours that Tyler enjoyed. As you can tell from the photo below I thoroughly enjoyed my sloppy, smelly and very fishy kiss!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimw_c9pHV43KWA7o3K3llhASLorG9rTjp2AZt3ySdCF4rMlikTfIauhXS2A3AHTHTxFXwpNDgRniUbxi9DBMn7IOQO5Zm6RFqxVrmtHyMSyCpdK95iMW-acFdO36LLv9yYF-hXxTRy-rE/s1600/Kate-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimw_c9pHV43KWA7o3K3llhASLorG9rTjp2AZt3ySdCF4rMlikTfIauhXS2A3AHTHTxFXwpNDgRniUbxi9DBMn7IOQO5Zm6RFqxVrmtHyMSyCpdK95iMW-acFdO36LLv9yYF-hXxTRy-rE/s320/Kate-2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A kiss from the gorgeous Tyler, a California sea lion</td></tr>
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I couldn't resist a photo opportunity with Ken on the last day! He's such a rock star of the animal training world :)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW-26kb8Z-_o7Lz5kx0pVxX7UIKBhxLJAzVK9sePoru7lC92lMMtJltJnA-RAYZoqV0xP1KGWvXdnEHHSzfljh1SlW0MN5zpgdhGfP0-IPDGbzqsoKz-wtgxxeGJgFQ8dT37PtdfLbVoI/s1600/IMG_3571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW-26kb8Z-_o7Lz5kx0pVxX7UIKBhxLJAzVK9sePoru7lC92lMMtJltJnA-RAYZoqV0xP1KGWvXdnEHHSzfljh1SlW0MN5zpgdhGfP0-IPDGbzqsoKz-wtgxxeGJgFQ8dT37PtdfLbVoI/s320/IMG_3571.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me with Ken Ramirez</td></tr>
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The very last animal training session we observed for the workshop was the Beluga whales. We made our way to the beluga habitat and watched five trainers work six animals. Here's a video highlighting some of that training...<br />
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The workshop concluded with a farewell dinner in the President's room overlooking Lake Michigan and the Chicago skyline. Ken sat at our table and entertained us with some incredible stories of animals he had worked with and their amazing intelligence and personalities.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the President's room for the farewell dinner</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the closing dinner overlooking Lake Michigan and the Chicago skyline</td></tr>
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My week at Shedd Aquarium was one I will never forget. I met some amazing people and animals and learned from one of the world's most well respected animal trainers. I cannot say enough about how amazing Ken Ramirez is - a gifted teacher, animal trainer and storyteller. If you're an animal behaviour and training geek (like me) and you're lucky enough to have the opportunity to learn from him then take it! You won't regret it.<br />
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The knowledge and experiences I bring home from the Animal Training Workshop will further improve the services I provide my clients as an animal behaviourist and consultant. As it turns out, the timing of this workshop could not have been better. I have been hired by <a href="http://www.melbourneaquarium.com.au/home" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Melbourne Aquarium</span></a> to deliver several staff training workshops on animal behaviour, learning and training later this year. I look forward to assisting their staff to better understand the behaviour of the animals in their care and how to interact with them to promote optimal behaviour outcomes.<br />
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Keep an eye out for a future blog post about the Melbourne Aquarium workshops!<br />
<br />Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3850433649514347396.post-30130421070328786512012-08-25T17:03:00.002-07:002012-08-29T21:03:42.380-07:00Professional Animal Training Workshop at the Shedd Aquarium - Part 1I'm in Chicago to attend the Professional Animal Training Workshop at the <a href="http://www.sheddaquarium.org/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Shedd Aquarium</span></a>. The five day course ran from Monday the 20th until Friday the 24th of August and was taught by <a href="http://kenramireztraining.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Ken Ramirez</span></a>, a highly respected and world renowned animal trainer with 35 years of training experience. Here's an overview of the first two days of the workshop at Shedd Aquarium:<br />
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<b>Day 1:</b><br />
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The 15 minute walk over to the Aquarium on day one was pretty funny! Not a minute after I walked out of my hotel the dark skies fleetingly lit up with cracks of iridescent lightening which was soon followed by roaring claps of thunder. Then, it started to POUR! Of course I didn't bring an umbrella so I got completely drenched as I scrambled to get to Shedd, about a 15 minute walk away.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The John G. Shedd Aquarium (built in 1930)</td></tr>
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The day began with an introduction from Ken about his 35 years of experience in the animal training world. He's trained everything from marine mammals to tigers, reptiles, sea otters, penguins and dogs. Topics covered on day 1 included 'the history of animal training', 'knowing our animal', 'trust and relationship building', 'operant conditioning vs classical conditioning', 'the ABC's of learning' and 'reinforcement'. Ken also spoke about the Four Cornerstones of Animal Care:<br />
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1. Health care (Veterinary)<br />
2. Nutrition<br />
3. Environment (including social interactions)<br />
4. Behaviour Management (Training)<br />
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We were privileged to observe (very close up) training sessions with Tyler, Tanner and Biff (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_sea_lion" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">California sea lions</span></a>) and Piquet and her 90 day old calf (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pacific_white-sided_dolphin" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Pacific White-sided dolphins</span></a>). A number of different husbandry (targeting a range of different targets and body parts) and non-husbandry behaviours (such as vocalisation, spin and salute) were demonstrated and Ken continued to work on a new voluntary rear flipper blood draw behaviour he was teaching Tyler. <br />
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One of the gems of wisdom Ken gave us from day one was that <i>"every trainer has a slightly different perspective based on their own training background and experiences"</i> and that this is an important consideration when meeting and talking to other people in the field.<br />
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Here's a video of Ken doing a target training session with Piquet and her calf (Pacific White-sided dolphins):<br />
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<b>Day 2:</b><br />
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I arrived at Shedd excited for what lay ahead and eager to learn more. Ken didn't disappoint! Some of the topics covered on day two included 'shaping techniques', 'Karen Pryor's 10 laws of shaping', 'stimulus control', 'dealing with incorrect responses', 'training and shaping plans', 'non-formal interactions', 'active vs passive training', 'husbandry training', 'desensitisation' and 'training techniques for medical behaviours'. Ken also discussed the most common mistakes trainers make, such as assuming what an animal finds reinforcing, taking approximations that are too big and using more than one trainer for new behaviours.<br />
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We watched six behind the scene training sessions with four different species: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magellanic_Penguin" target="_blank">Magellanic penguins</a>, Californian sea lions, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beluga_whale" target="_blank">Beluga whales</a> and Pacific White-sided dolphins. The Beluga whale session was a "none-formal interaction" in which Ken and Rick played with the dolphins. Play is a non-food reinforcer for the Belugas.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ken playing with Kayavak, the Beluga whale, who LOVES tongue rubs!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"305", the Magellanic penguin, getting reinforcement from his trainer</td></tr>
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Check out this clip of a training session with one of the Pacific White-sided dolphins:<br />
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Day two ended with some traditional <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicago-style_pizza" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Chicago deep dish pizza</span></a> for dinner and an informal Q&A session with Ken. Participants were encouraged to ask questions and Ken was more than happy to address them. We had some excellent discussions and heard some incredible stories from Ken. He is such a gifted storyteller and had many of us in tears with one particular story he told.<br />
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Ken's gem for day two? Well, there were several. The first: <i>"Every interaction we have with an animal has some type of reinforcing value". </i>The second gem for me was the blatant realisation that you should NEVER believe what you hear or read in the media because in doing so you risk forming ill-informed opinions based on incorrect information and facts. Hearing a first hand account of an incident I had previously read about made me realise how the media can twist facts and introduce fiction all in the name of a "good" story. Like any animal, I have learned from my mistake.<br />
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If you're hooked and what to find out what we did on days three to five then why not subscribe and be notified when I post Part 2 of my adventures at Shedd. I promise it will <b><i>definitely</i></b> be worth your while!!!<br />
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Dr Kate Mornementhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03683738373734132228noreply@blogger.com21200 S Lake Shore Dr, Chicago, IL 60605, USA41.8675994 -87.614014141.8557749 -87.6337551 41.879423900000006 -87.594273100000009